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2015 CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION 1er Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan, Lea & Sandeman

CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION

2016 1er Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan

Grapes Cab Franc, Cab Sauv, Merlot
Colour Red
Origin France, Bordeaux
Village Pessac-Léognan
Classification 1er Cru Classé
ABV 14%

56% Merlot, 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 37.5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Almost completely dumb on the nose. The palate is rich and opulent, and yet cool and dry. Giving little away for now. Very fine tannins and huge volume and density, all in a slightly impenetrable ball. Acidity makes it lively, and from start to finish there's intensity of fruit building until you have to either spit of swallow. This is going to be sensational, but like Cheval Blanc, it is a complete baby and very hard to judge as it is so reserved. Finish goes on and on, layers of red and black fruit all pure and defined - raspberry to purest cassis. Drinking range: 2030 - 2055 Rating: 96-98 L&S (Apr 2017)


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The 2016 Haut-Brion has a precise, focused bouquet of blackberry, briar, pressed flowers and supremely well-integrated oak; there is real panache here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, pinpoint acidity and a little grittiness to the texture. Quite spicy, revealing white pepper and cedar toward a finish that just tapers in slightly, probably because this is beginning to close down. I have had better bottles in the past. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting. Drinking range: 2026 - 2080 Rating: 96+ Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Aug 2020)

As to the reds, the 2016 Haut Brion is a prodigious, legendary wine in the making, although it’s not for those seeking instant gratification. Deeper colored and more concentrated than the La Mission Haut Brion, it reveals a purple/ruby color as well as a sensational bouquet of blackcurrants, cassis, cigar tobacco, cold fireplace, violets, and lead pencil. Deep, masculine, structured, and mineral-laced, it has a stacked mid-palate, full-bodied richness, building tannins, and a firm, blockbuster styled finish that lasts for close to a minute. A wine for the ages, don’t even think about opening bottles for at least 7-8 years. It should keep for half a century. The blend in 2016 is 56% Merlot, 37.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6.5% Cabernet Franc. Drinking range: 2019 - 2027 Rating: 98+ Jeb Dunnuck, www.jebdunnuck.com (Feb 2019)

Large and in charge, this has a prodigious core of steeped plum, black currant and loganberry fruit flavors that show both compote and coulis aspects. While that steeps, this delivers a sturdy frame of roasted mesquite, smoldering tobacco and incense, surrounding a muscular spine of worn cedar and tar. Still rather backward, this will be showing well when most others from the vintage have had their day. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 98 James Molesworth, The Wine Spectator (Jan 2019)

Château Haut Brion

1855 classification - Premier Grand Cru Classé Château Haut Brion is famously the only estate in Graves to have featured in the 1855 classification reflecting a long established reputation, even if, at the time, the crown was beginning to slip. During the 16th Century, Haut-Brion was briefly owned by Jean de Ségur of the Ségur family who at various times owned both Lafite and Latour. Jean de Pontac inherited Haut Brion as a wedding dowry in 1525 and, apart from a brief period during the French Revolution, his descendents owned the estate until 1801. The Pontacs were an interesting lot, including in their number a very pious Bishop, a politician, and François-Auguste Pontac who started a London inn called l'Enseigne de Pontac where Samuel Pepys enjoyed "a sort of French wine called Ho Bryan", finding it "hath a good and most particular taste". Jonathon Swift, however, thought the wine "dear at seven shillings a flagon" - 35p a bottle, if only! Haut Brion was the first Bordeaux wine known to have been imported into the USA when Thomas Jefferson had six cases shipped home to Virginia. Eventually, in the earlier years of the 19th Century, Haut Brion found its way into the hands of the Larrieu family. Preceding reputation was enough to get Haut Brion classified as a Premier Grand Cru Classé in 1855, and a string of copy cat estates appended "Haut Brion" to their names (a source of some litigation in the 1920's) but in reality the 19th and early 20th Centuries were not great times for the wines of Haut Brion. When the bank seized the assets of Milleret Larrieu after WWI, the estate fell into the hands of the Société des Glacières under who's unenlightened guidance much of the gardens were sold off the make way for expanding city of Bordeaux. They then offered Château Haut Brion to the City of Bordeaux, who turned it down, allowing American financier Clarence Dillon to realise his dream of owning a Bordeaux château, buying the estate in 1935. His descendents own Haut Brion to this day. The gravel soils of Haut Brion are planted with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc for reds, and a more or less 50/50 split of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon for the whites. There are around 45ha under vine. Haut Brion were one of the first estates to ferment in stainless steel. After fermentation, red wines spend up to two years in oak, previoulsy 100% new for the grand vin but, now, more like 35%. The second wine of the estate was known for many years as Bahans Haut Brion, but was renamed recently as Le Clarence de Haut Brion in honour of Clarence Dillon.

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