2016 Alliance-Vergisson Domaine Daniel Barraud
Good clean sweeping attack. This is clean cut yet broad and enveloping. Weighted but bright. Interesting. I really like the spice hit of ginger, the soft 'pain d'epice' note. This does does fan out on the finish and the fruit weight builds. Definitely Pouilly! L&S (Dec 2017)
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(from three vineyards located in Vergisson and Fuissé). This is reduced at present and in need of aeration if you’re going to try a bottle young. On the plus side there is slightly better verve if not quite the concentration to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a sumptuous mouth feel while culminating in a juicy and punchy if not especially complex tangy sour-sweet finish. 2020+ Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Oct 2018)
A chunkier, more foursquare wine, the 2016 Pouilly-Fuissé “Alliance” Vieilles Vignes offers up a youthfully reserved bouquet of yellow orchard fruit, peach and flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and dense, with serious mid-palate density and substance, underpinned by juicy balancing acids. Its élevage is divided equally between stainless steel tank, demi-muids and barrels. Note that this year the blend includes the Barrauds' holdings in Les Chataigniers, which were struck hard by hail and likely contribute additional richness to the cuvée. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 90+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Aug 2018)
(from three vineyards located in Vergisson and Fuissé). This too is very firmly reduced at present. On the plus side there is slightly better verve if not quite the concentration though even so the mouth feel is lavish and even sumptuous while culminating in a juicy and punchy if not especially complex finish. That said, I suspect that this powerful effort will develop more depth if it is allowed a few years of cellar time first. Drinking range: 2020 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2018)
(one-third done in cuve but also got a bit of new oak; this bottling is made from four parcels in Vergisson, one of them lost to hail in 2016): Bright medium yellow. Musky, complex scents of peach, nectarine and citrus fruits show enticing lift. An attractive glyceral midweight with fine-grained lemon and saline flavors complicated by a touch of exotic fruits and lifted by a floral nuance. Quite dry and classic--and nicely balanced from the outset. Finishes with good saline grip and length and a light touch. Classic Pouilly-Fuissé. Rating: 89-91 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Dec 2017)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).
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