2016 Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud
From Cask. Tea cakes and toasty notes on the nose some plump raisins. Then electric on palate. Pert, zip to the limey pithy juice. Much less bulk than you might expect. Saline minerality. More concentrated, more power - but all the time nicely taut. Nicely direct and energetic. Impressive stuff. Big and powerful, but done subtly. L&S (Oct 2017)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
(65+ year old vines near Solutré that face north east). Once again there are plenty of phenolic and wood toast aromas that dominate the nose. This is almost always the biggest wine in the Barraud range and so it is again in 2016 with its imposingly-scaled and powerful flavors that flash plenty of sleek muscularity on the moderately complex but remarkably persistent finish that is also bone dry and ever-so-mildly warm. Like most of these examples of Pouilly-Fuissé the depth is a work in progress but thanks to the density of the underlying material more should almost certainly develop. 2021+ Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Oct 2018)
As is often the case, the 2016 Pouilly-Fuissé En Buland Vieilles Vignes is the greatest wine in Barraud's cellar—and one of the wines of the vintage in the Mâconnais. Wafting from the glass with a classy bouquet of citrus oil, white flowers, iodine and smoke, it's full-bodied, pure and tensile, with a satiny attack, amazing depth and dimension, concluding with a long, racy finish. This is a stunning Pouilly-Fuissé produced from the domaine's oldest vines in a north-facing lieu-dit. Its quality makes a mockery of the appellation's new premiers crus, as at the time of writing, En Buland is denied the classification by virtue of the very exposition that gives it such an advantage in the Mâconnais's generous climate. Let's hope that the INAO remedy that error. Drinking range: 2018 - 2030 Rating: 94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Aug 2018)
(65+ year old vines near Solutré that face north east). Once again there is plenty of funky reduction and residual malo aromas that dominate the nose. This is almost always the biggest wine in the Barraud range and so it is again in 2016 with its imposingly-scaled and powerful flavors that flash plenty of sleek muscularity on the moderately complex but remarkably persistent finish. Like most of these examples of Pouilly-Fuissé the depth is a work in progress but thanks to the density of the underlying material more should almost certainly develop. Drinking range: 2021 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2018)
Ripe stone fruit aromas, rich and full on the palate. No significant oak influence allows the fruit to shine. Rich, full structure. Drinking range: 2018 - 2022 Rating: 16.5 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2018)
(these vines at about 350 meters face northeast, but the Barrauds have never chaptalized this wine; production here is routinely between 40 and 45 hectoliters per hectare): Pale, bright yellow. Cooler on the nose than the Sûr La Roche, offering precise, vibrant aromas of crystallized lemon peel, menthol, minerals and white pepper. Densely packed, concentrated and fine-grained; less showy than the Sûr La Roche but offers an old-vines creaminess of texture. Wonderfully sappy, dense wine with real energy and salinity. Julien Barraud noted that En Buland features soil similar to that of Les Crays, which is slated to be elevated to premier cru status when the new classification is finalized. The very long finish features adamant stony minerality. A complete wine with all the elements for a graceful evolution in bottle, but it will also be drinkable early. (Incidentally, as the Barrauds harvested barely ten hectoliters per hectare from their old vines in Les Chataigniers, they put this juice into their Cuvée Alliance.) Rating: 92-94 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Dec 2017)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon, All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound "I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out." (www.Burghound.com).
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