2017 del Comune di La Morra Andrea Oberto
Lovely intensity jumps out of the glass at you. Gorgeously fragrant with balsamic notes, cherry, raspberry and that classic 'tarry' edge. Lovely soft tannins. Supple and insistent but so well assimilated. On the palate there is a joyful riot of flavours - dark lines of soft tar and licorice and red roses too, all accenting the deep, soft berry fruit. Balsamic wafts again and a note of Asian spices - all delivered brightly with great push and intensity.
The fruit for this comes from 3 vineyards all in the commune of La Morra: Annunziato, Boiolo and San Francesco. Élevage is in a mix of big barrels and small. L&S (Oct 2021)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2017 Barolo del Comune di La Morra is a soft, fleshy wine to drink now and over the next handful of years, Black cherry, tobacco, licorice, leather and spice are nicely pushed forward. All the 2017 needs is a bit of time to shed some of its youthful tannin. Drinking range: 2023 - 2035Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate (Feb 2021)
A small family run winery and vineyard based in La Morra, The Obertos have sixteen hectares of vineyards and produce a brilliant 'village' Barolo from La Morra itself - as well as two other Barolos from different top 'crus': Rocche dell'Annunziata in La Morra and Albarella in Barolo, just above Cannubi. The wines are beautifully focused and age well, although immensely approachable in their youth as there is a deliciously juicy and generous feel that runs through all the wines.
The winery’s origins are humble, in fact everything began in 1959 when Andrea's father bought a farmhouse in La Morra. At that time the farmers could not survive with just one crop, and so he earned a living growing peaches, grapes and raising cows. However, in the family business there was not enough work for everyone and so Andrea, decided to leave the farm and started working for a big company as truck driver. He came back (thankfully!) to La Morra in 1978 when his father died, inheriting the family’s land and taking on the management of the farm. He soon began to focus solely on vine growing. At the beginning the grapes were sold to cooperatives or even to friends and family. Andrea's talents soon became clear, and the small farm quickly morphed into a wine company with sixteen hectares of their own wines and brilliant cellar. When we visited the family in the Autumn of 2021 Andrea was rightfully full of optimism and enthusiasm. On the subject of these latest releases Andrea tells us that 'because 2016 was such a hit with the press, it is a hard act to follow, but 2017 should not be overlooked!'. On the basis of this tasting - it is hard to argue with - his 2017s are all wines that you simply want to drink.
To some Barolo represents the very pinnacle of Italian wine. The majestic ethereal character appeals to the senses in a similar way to red Burgundy, even if the style of the wines is utterly different. This is the intense and seductive world of Nebbiolo, where solid tannins vie unexpectedly well with delicate fruit, and where age unwinds ever more complex flavours.
Piedmont has the distinction of making, not only some of Italy's greatest wines, but also of using grape varieties rarely found elsewhere. The undisputed king of these varieties is the very noble Nebbiolo, in this case represented by Sottimano's solid Langhe Nebbiolo from Barbaresco - a wine that outdoes many a grander offering. Piedmont's staple red variety is, however, Barbera with its juicy cherry fruit and often surprising body. Dolcetto - the "little sweet one" - is always densely coloured but often at the simpler fruitier end of things. We have, also, included in this case the unusual and delicious Mimmo from Le Piane at Boca in the far north-east of Piedmont - a plump and attractive Nebbiolo, Croatina and Vespolino blend.
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