|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Lucky Joseph has a friendly vigneron who thinks he needs a Grand Cru or two in his range, so sells him the must for this and the Chevalier Montrachet. He can set the picking date and goes a bit earlier than the date his friend chooses, to keep a tonic freshness (as he does with the Vide Bourse). As so often is the case with a Bâtard this was giving little away in our early tastings, but the weight and density are Grand Cru all right, as is the seamless length. I have no doubt that it will turn out very well. Drinking range: 2025 - 2035 L&S (Nov 2018)
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There is one barrel of the 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a powerful wine that offers up aromas of yellow orchard fruit, white flowers, acacia honey and Meyer lemon. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, limpid and expansive, with a voluminous and fleshy core, succulent acids and a pure, penetrating finish. It's a more than creditable debut Bâtard. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Jan 2019)
Domaine Joseph Colin
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and since then Joseph was an important member of the team there. Now he has decided to leave, making a token 1800 or so bottles in 2016, before starting in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.
Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2017 he used no S02 until just before bottling, but if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier.
Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity for crystalline definition.
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