CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET

Tasted with Véronique Drouhin at her London presentation of the vintage. This has good pure lines again. A nice clean scrub of pithy restraint and lovely fresh chalky minerality. The fruit has a waxier feel, with essence of lemon skin and then a riper, sweet line of juice in the middle. Still well-furled but you can sense the good, soft flesh just waiting below the surface. Good intensity. Drinking range: 2020 - 2026L&S (Nov 2018)

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) displays a light reduction on the nose, touches of clear honey, jasmine and lemon thyme developing with aeration. The pretty palate of white peach and passion fruit notes is a little sweeter and more candied than Olivier Leflaive's Abbaye de Morgeot tasted in the same flight, but maintains a fine bead of acidity with good salinity through to the finish. Very pretty and more-ish. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. Drinking range: 2023 - 2040 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche wafts from the glass with a lovely bouquet of pretty orchard fruit, pastry cream, dried white flowers, honeycomb and a nutty framing of new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, pure and satiny, with good depth and concentration at the core, tangy balancing acids and a beautifully defined finish. This is dependably among the finest whites in the Drouhin cellar, and this year's rendition is no exception. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)