2017 Cru Bourgeois Supérieur Margaux
|Grapes||Petit Verdot, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc|
|Classification||Cru Bourgeois Supérieur|
A firm favourite in the L&S camp. This year production is sadly down by about 40%, a great shame as the wine really is superb. Some of the losses were immediate (the frost killed off an entire Merlot vineyard in Soussans) but that only effected about 6% of the total stock. The cold also reduced yields on the surviving vines as fewer bunches could be supported on each plant. The low yield has led to super concentration in the rich, dark fruit which sits beautifully within a framework of well-judged oak. A mineral undertow gives this wonderful shape and restrained power. Simply delicious and drinkable relatively soon. Rating: 91 L&S (Apr 2018)
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The 2017 Labégorce is powerful yet nuanced, and wonderfully complete. Cedar, tobacco, mint, dried herbs and licorice grace this wine of tremendous complexity. While it is towering in its size, richness and intensity, the 2017 is also surprisingly elegant. Creamy, ample and flavorful, this is a very good wine with rather pretty floral notes that grace the exquisite finish. Drinking range: 2025 - 2032 Rating: 93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Mar 2020)
The 2017 Labégorce was picked 15 September to 4 October and matured in 45% new oak. It has a perfumed bouquet with rose petal and violet aromas infusing the dark cherry and raspberry pastille notes. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine line of acidity. There is some vanillary oak to be subsumed during the élevage, wood tannins just lining the mouth on the aftertaste. But this is a finely made Margaux that should age well over the next 15 to 20 years. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2018)
Deep cherry red with black core. Sweet-smelling cassis with an attractive dusty graphite overlay. Soft chalky tannins and not a huge amount of fruit on the palate but the tannins are light enough to keep the balance, though the finish is quite dry. Drinking range: 2022 - 2030 Rating: 15.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2018)
Nathalie Perrodo brought her father's dream to reality with the 2010, the 'first' vintage from the newly reunited Labégorce vineyards, after they had spent a couple of centuries split into three. The Labégorce vineyard seems to have been named after an Abbé Gorsse, but the truth is somewhat shrouded in mystery. Feret, in his edition of 1865, mentions the existence of the noble La Bégorce house in Margaux from 1332. The estate was split into three after the revolution. The part that was named Labégorce Zédé in 1840 was reintegrated for the first time since then in 2010. Hubert Perrodo bought Labégorce in 1989, and the buildings of l'Abbé Gorsse de Gorsse in 2002 (the vineyard of this one escaped him, bought by Château Margaux). But his dream of re-uniting the historic Labégorce estate after he bought Labégorce Zédé in 2005 was cut short by his death in a ski-ing accident at Courchevel in 2006. After a couple of years of reflection, his twenty-five year-old daughter Nathalie has taken up the challenge of continuing his work, directing this really quite large domaine which also includes the fifteen hectares of the Cru Classé Château Marquis d'Alesme.
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