GEVREY CHAMBERTIN
2017 Cuvée Bertin Domaine Lignier-Michelot
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Gevrey Chambertin |
| ABV | 13% |
Good gutsy attack after the two Moreys tasted so far. Suddenly there is that blackberry hit and you know you've moved to Gevrey. A more savoury, earthy side too. Lovely lifted energetic push of just ripe black fruit. Clean and charming mineral edge too keeps this lithe and fresh. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026 L&S (Nov 2018)
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(from Les Seuvrées and Les Murots; 100% whole cluster). This too is aromatically quite floral with plenty of herbal tea influence to the cool, pure and earthy blend of red and dark currant scents. I really like the sense of tension on the intense, muscular and utterly delicious middle weight flavors that display fine delineation on the mildly austere and rustic finish. This is a very good Gevrey villages and worth checking out. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2019)
A blend of three climats with 100% whole bunches, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin "Cuvée Bertin" has a welcoming, open-knit raspberry and crushed strawberry bouquet with light earthy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and fine acidity. Probably more for early drinking, since it lacks a little grip and substance on the finish. Drinking range: 2020 - 2036 Rating: 87-89 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Lignier-Michelot
A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.
In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.
The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.
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