Very pale and tight, but not harsh. Powerful, and with excellent acidity alongside the supple richness. The vineyard here is now close to a hectare after Julien inherited some vines from and uncle to add to the existing parcel. Limestone in sharp stones in red clay - hard to work and the limestone is very hard - it cuts up the tyres of vehicles. Nicely straight with a long taut mineral finish. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 L&S (Nov 2018)
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Strong citrus influence can be found on the spiced pear compote-suffused nose that reveals discreet but not invisible wood influence. The seductively textured and generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors possess a sappy, indeed even chewy, mouth feel before concluding in a mildly warm bitter lemon-infused finish that is impressively persistent. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2020)
Strong reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit. More interesting are the seductively textured and generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors that possess a sappy mouth feel before concluding again in a refreshing bitter lemon-infused finish that offers slightly better depth and length. 2021+ Rating: 89-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2018)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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