2017 Tremblots Domaine Hubert Lamy
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
The 'younger' vines that make up this plot are now 40 years old, the older ones over 80. Clay and limestone. Expressive again, juicily aromatic 'a bit phenolic', says Olivier, going on to explain that when it's this ripe he can attack the pressing with several rebêchages (breaking down the matted pressed skins and re-loading the press for another go), as the phenolic side will not show as vegetal because of the ripeness, and the extract will help the wine age well. There's a powerful density which shows great promise. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025 L&S (Jul 2018)
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A more elegant nose offers up notes of acacia blossom, lemon rind, spice and white peach. The old vines are in evidence as there is very good weight and mid-palate concentration to the delicious and caressing yet powerful medium weight flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the bone dry, highly complex and sneaky long finish. This is really quite good and worth your interest. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots offers up aromas of lime zest, lemon oil, white flowers and crushed chalk, followed by a medium-bodied, chalky and tensile palate that's bright and mouthwatering, structured around considerable dry extract. Rating: 89-91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)
Finely etched with masses of acidity – so much that I feel you need to give this wine masses of time. At the moment it's almost like dry lemon cordial. Drinking range: 2023 - 2031 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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