2017 Les Pommards Domaine Daniel Barraud
Lovely bright gold. 50-year-old vines. 'There may be some Chardonnay musqué (a clone with a hint of Muscat about it) in this', says Daniel. There's certainly extra richness as usual, hazelnut, savoury - lovely. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 L&S (Nov 2018)
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(from vines situated in Davayé, planted in rocky, high limestone content soil which abuts the Pouilly-Fuissé vineyard of Le Pommard on the edge of Vergisson and Solutré). A whiff of muscat character adds a bit of aromatic breadth to the aromas of peach, apricot and lychee nut that are also trimmed in just enough wood to remark upon. The exceptionally rich, even opulent flavors are relatively full-bodied and more powerful than usual, all wrapped in a clean and dry finish that exhibits more evident minerality. This is slightly awkward today but my rating offers the benefit of the doubt that it will harmonize with a year or two of bottle age. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
The 2017 Saint-Véran Les Pommards has a touch of petrol on the nose that lends it more complexity than the rather underwhelming Mâcon-Vergisson. The palate is well balanced and smooth in the mouth, displaying a fine bead of acidity and a touch of white pepper and sage. It might need a little more energy and tension on the finish, but there is good aging potential here. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028 Rating: 89+ Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Jan 2019)
(from vines situated in Davayé, planted in rocky, high limestone content soil which abuts the Pouilly-Fuissé vineyard of Le Pommard on the edge of Vergisson and Solutré). A whiff of muscat character adds a bit of aromatic breadth to the aromas of peach, apricot and lychee nut. The exceptionally rich, even opulent flavors are relatively full-bodied and more powerful than usual, all wrapped in a clean and dry finish that offers better overall balance. Drinking range: 2021 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Oct 2018)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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