2017 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Clos des Gravières|
You can taste the sun on this wine, like sun on hot rock - ripe and minerally with a lovely texture, taut and bright and firm, very straight. Drinking range: 2019 - 2025 L&S (Jul 2018)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Here too there is enough reduction to mask the underlying fruit though there is good freshness to the attractively intense and well-concentrated middle weight flavors that culminate in a dry, clean, complex and lingering finale. This is lovely and crafted in an understated fashion. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2019)
(a .28 ha clos with vines that average ~45 years of age). This too is aromatically airy and admirably pure with a red berry liqueur-like array that includes plenty of earth and violet nuances. The juicy, intense and nicely detailed medium-bodied flavors also offer excellent complexity and sneaky good length on the youthfully austere and quite firmly structured finale. This is very good but note well that it will not make for especially interesting early drinking as the supporting tannins are prominent at present. Drinking range: 2029 - Rating: 90-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2019)
The 2017 Santenay Clos des Gravières Blanc 1er Cru has a backward bouquet at first, reluctantly unfolding with apple blossom, white peach and wet limestone scents. The palate is sharp and very citric at the moment, not shrill but this needs time to find an even keel. Good length, but be patient - this is a hardcore Santenay! Drinking range: 2020 - 2030 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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