SANTENAY

2017 Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Santenay
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Clos des Gravières

One of the great vineyards of Santenay, steeply sloped especially towards the top. Olivier has high-density planted at the bottom. Deep colour, juicy and rich, with lots of limestone and energy. L&S (Nov 2018)


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More delicate and ethereal than the 2018, Lamy's 2017 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) is also performing well, bursting with scents of rose petals, red berries and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and lively, it's framed by succulent acids and powdery tannins. I'm inclined to give the edge to the richer, more dramatic 2018 in terms of overall potential, but this 2017 is immensely seductive today. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 92 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)

The 2017 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) bursts from the glass with expressive aromas of cassis, wild berries, cinnamon, currant leaf and loamy soil. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, chalky and vibrant, with good concentration, fine-grained structuring tannins and a fragrant finish. Rating: 90-92 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Santenay Clos des Gravières 1er Cru Rouge has a delicate, refined and understated bouquet with pure red cherries, redcurrant and hints of rose petal. The palate is well balanced, the red cru with the most sucrosity from Lamy, with a lively, pastille-like finish that just misses a little length. Even so, it still comes across as thoroughly enjoyable. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028 Rating: 88-90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.

Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.

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