2017 Domaine Comte Armand
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
The 2017 Volnay Village has a bright, slightly Pommard-like bouquet with plenty of sous-bois and autumn leaf scents that percolate through the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit. Quite saline in the mouth, and the grainy-textured finish cuts off a bit short. Drinking range: 2021 - 2033 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2020)
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In contrast to the first two wines, here the nose is sufficiently reduced to render an evaluation difficult. By contrast there is good freshness and verve to the more precisely detailed middle weight flavors where the supporting tannins are notably finer even though the finish is also ever-so-slightly rustic. A quality Volnay villages. Drinking range: 2025 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2019)
Pale crimson. Juicy, fruity sort of nose. Less structure than the Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru. Big and almost blowsy. Some heat on the end Drinking range: 2022 - 2029 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2019)
The 2017 Volnay Village comes from two parcels: 40% from Les Famines, where old vines are located, and 60% from Grand Champs. It offers bright red cherries and raspberry preserve on the nose, which is just a bit too showy compared to the more controlled pair from Auxey-Duresses. The medium-bodied palate is a little savory in style, offering fleshy red fruit, grainy tannin and a conservative finish. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027 Rating: 85-87 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2019)
Domaine Comte Armand
A domaine totalling nine hectares, of which the most important part is a magnificent five hectare monopole of the Pommard Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux, which was put together by Nicolas Marey in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (along with the DRC Romanée Saint Vivant 'Marey-Monge'). These vineyards were all sold, except for the Clos (now been enclosed by a wall), which came to Jean-François Armand as a dowry when he married Nicolas' daughter in 1826. The Volnay vineyards were added in 1994, followed by parcels in Auxey Duresses.
The current Comte Armand is a lawyer living in Paris, but very supportive of the régisseurs who have looked after this domaine for the thirty years or so that L&S have been buying here. The 1980 vintage, made by one of the many Rossignols of Volnay who was in charge at the time, was for us a great introduction to the possibilities of the great Clos des Epeneaux vineyard. Then came the era of Pascal Marchand, a young Quebecois who came to do a harvest with Domaine Bruno Clair and just never left. He began a period of radical restructuring and the introduction of organic and then biodynamic farming, while making very dark, dense and long-lived wines. Benjamin Leroux, hugely respected amongst growers who approach things from an organic or biodynamic point of view, then took over, and refined this approach and changed the way the parcels of vines are divided up for harvesting, paying less attention to just the age of the vines, and more to the underlying soil types. Claude Bourguignon was employed to provide a full geological survey of the Clos as the basis for this. Under Benjamin the wines of the Clos gained in finesse and precision, while still having the depth and richness expected of a great Pommard.
Both Pascal and Benjamin were keen to expand beyond the confines of the Clos, and the Domaine also has vines in Volnay, and, a particular enthusiasm of both Pascal and Benjamin, in Auxey Duresses, where they are convinced of the great potential of some of this village's undervalued and neglected terroirs. Paul Zinetti, who had worked with Ben for four years, took over in 2014.
The vineyard is cultivated organically (ECOCERT certified) and biodynamically. The grapes are entirely de-stemmed, but left intact, for a five to eight-day cold maceration before the fermentation, which lasts five to ten days, and then the wine remains in the fermenters for between three and fifteen days, depending on the vintage. In most years, the total time with skin contact will be around four weeks, which is longer than most. The wines will then be aged in barrel for between eighteen and twenty-four months, with new wood limited to 30% for the wine from the old vines of the Clos, down to none at all for the village wines.
Paul said from the outset that he wanted to make to make a less tannic wine in the Clos, and one which is more about aromatic length. In this he is continuing the route that Ben was following, but perhaps taking it even further.
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