|Origin||Italy, Alto Adige|
Manni's Grüner Veltliner is a pure joy to taste. His fruit comes from his high vineyards at between 660-700 metres of altitude in the beautiful Eisaktaler Valley. More Austria and 'The Sound of Music' than what you might imagine when you're thinking Italy. And so it is not a great surprise that he feels this Austrian variety works well here. To preserve the freshness and delicate, complex aromas he gives it a long, cool fermentation with half in stainless steel vats and the other half in large (30 Hecrolitre), 5-year-old acacia 'botti'. The Acacia adds a touch of texture but no discernible oakiness - just perhaps accentuating the pretty spice and pepper notes that compliment this fresh, firm peach and white pear core of fruit. There are flowers too - a whiff of white blooms and the a fresh, bright, lemon line that flows and flows picking out mineral texture and the faintest feel of chalky dust. A super 'Alpine' wine with lovely subtle texture. L&S (Feb 2020)
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As Ian d'Agata writes: 'Manni Nössing is one of Italy’s most talented winemakers. In fact, all his wines are so good that it’s virtually impossible to pick the best of the lot, or even a favourite.'
We could not agree more. Manni is a charming, unassuming man crafting simply outstanding wines in this beautiful corner of north eastern Italy. The Eisackthal Valley (German Name) or Valle Isarcois (as its known in Italian) is a small tract of the Alto Adige that feels deeply Alpine, Germanic even - it is a mesmorising scenery, completely breathtaking to be in. Beautifully mountainous with green high-pastures, craggy clifftops adorned with isolated monasteries and small patches of vines, neatly ordered and hugging the slopes in small patches, dotted throughout the valley. There is a coming together of cultures here - in the school in Bressanone the first language is German and all the signs are written in both languages. Yet the wines here have a lovely, northern Italian purity. A limpid, crystalline quality. Bright, pure and yet with sensational texture and depth.
The DOC is small - running the length of the valley, just 40 km and made up of nearly 400 hectares under vine. Only white varieties are currently permitted, with Sylvaner, Kerner and Riesling featuring widely. Manni Nossing is farming just 6 hectares and is at the forefront of a new generation of winemakers - who's families historically sold their fruit to the big producers like Abbazia di Novacella, but now make their own wines. Since 2000 Manni has bottled his own wines and is fanatical about expressing the freshness of the terroir and is determined to make wines with huge drinkability - he finds it sad that some people are still trying to make fuller, more 'silicon coated' wines here - 'non per me grazie!'
These are fascinating, powerfully driven wines chiselled and focused - simply so moreish. Hand-crafted artisan winemaking with huge appeal we cannot recommend these wines highly enough.
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