The 'Alliance' here is the coming together of 5 parcels: 4 in Vergisson and 1 in Fuissé. All the vines range between 45 - 65 years old. One of the parcels is on clay - 4 on rock. There are some serious raw materials here and some clever, hard craft from Julien. Minerality ruling the nose for now. There's also some toast here, some good wood-spice on the attack. Nicely toasty. Good, tightly furled fruit core. Firm citrus flesh some apple and some pineapple cube crunch. Quite a big boy for now. Nicely complex and lots to get your teeth in to. Complex - powerful and slightly tightish. This complex mix of terroirs is then aged in a range of barrels and tanks to get the exact expression that Julien is after. 1/3 in barrel, 1/3 in Demi-Muids, 1/3 in cuve. Just 10% of the wood is new. L&S (Nov 2019)
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(from three vineyards located in Vergisson and Fuissé). A ripe yet still agreeably fresh nose combines notes of honey, petrol, soft wood and pear liqueur with those of spice and floral wisps. There is very good volume and reasonable mid-palate density to the appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors that possess an opulent mouthfeel, indeed almost oily, before culminating in a mildly sweet and warm finish. I suspect that the sweetness will eventually dissipate but it would be fair to say that this isn’t especially dry. This is already approachable and could easily be enjoyed now. Drinking range: 2022 - Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Oct 2020)
Always one of the more muscular wines in the range, Barraud's 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé “Alliance” Vieilles Vignes has turned out nicely, revealing aromas of honeyed pears, white flowers and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, it's ripe but succulent, with a generous core of fruit and broad shoulders. Drinking range: 2020 - 2028 Rating: 90 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Jun 2020)
(from three vineyards located in Vergisson and Fuissé). A slightly riper yet still agreeably fresh nose combines notes of petrol, soft wood and pear liqueur with those of spice and floral wisps. There is better volume and mid-palate density to the appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors that possess an opulent mouth feel before culminating in a mildly sweet if persistent finish. I suspect that the sweetness will eventually dissipate but it would be fair to say that this isn’t one of the drier wines in the range. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jan 2020)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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