2018 1er Cru La Garenne Domaine Joseph Colin
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Green-gold. Joseph descibes this as having the caractère mentholé of Puligny - a fresher style. And it's all there, sappy, insinuating, a cool 'hard pebble' feel, less spice - he says silkier, less brutal than the Caillerets. It's just under Trezin, so high up - the highest of the Premiers Crus, but still 13.8% - 'but the alcoholic degree is not important, it stays fresh even over 14%, as there's always a breeze up there'. It's a lovely style and this ripe vintage plays to the strength of the site. L&S (Oct 2019)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Like several other wines in the range, there is a background whiff of secondary fermentation character on the citrusy and smoky nose. The racy, intense and sleekly muscular flavors possess better volume and equally good minerality though the dry finish comes up a bit short. As the description suggests, this is somewhat awkward and it's not clear if it will harmonize or not. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 88? Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2020)
Domaine Joseph Colin
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and since then Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.
Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2018 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Genarally nothing is either fined or filtered.
Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity for crystalline definition.In 2018 Joseph picked over more than three weeks, starting on the 26th August and not finishing the last plots until the 20th of September.
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