2018 Tremblots Domaine Hubert Lamy
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
This had been fermenting for a year, so it's not quite got the clarity of the others yet and it's behind them in development too with fermentary citrus notes. Quite fat in this ripe vintage, but there's a bright freshness too, and the finish is pure and mineral. L&S (Oct 2019)
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Lamy's superb 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots delivers a striking bouquet of citrus oil, Anjou pear, wet stones and nutmeg, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and searingly mineral palate that's long and penetrating. It's easy to overlook this cuvée while pursuing its profound "Haut Densité" sibling, but that would be a mistake, as this is one of the finest communal Puligny-Montrachet bottlings one can find. Rating: 91-93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Feb 2020)
Cask sample. Savoury and dense and with a massive undertow of savoury fruit. Just what white burgundy should be. Long and complex. Drinking range: 2026 - 2038 Rating: 17+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2020)
This is straight, edged and has sliver of minerality. For a ripe vintage this has good tension and Puligny character. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 Rating: 88 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2019)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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