2018 Domaine Dureuil-Janthial
Three parcels. Sweetly soft, cushiony on the palate, gentle and pure, on soils with more clay than the Bourgogne, so less structure, but a lot of volume. Long, long finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2028 L&S (Oct 2019)
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The 2018 Rully offers up lovely aromas of cassis, blackberries, rich soil tones and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, round and fleshy, its generous core of fruit is underpinned by lively acids and velvety tannins. Last year, I wrote that the 2017 rendition was one of the most unabashedly delicious Rully reds that I can remember tasting from Vincent Dureuil, but this 2018 is just as charming—and with somewhat more depth, too. Drinking range: 2021 - 2035 Rating: 91 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jun 2020)
The 2018 Rully Rouge has a slightly smudged, savoury nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little hardness to contend with at first, but there is a fine structure on the finish. Drink over the next four to five years. Drinking range: 2021 - 2025 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2020)
Good intensity on the nose and then very charming sweet fruit on the palate. Good balance with some tannin evident for evolution. Quite full bodied for a Chalonnaise wine. Raspberry fruit? Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2020)
Domaine Dureuil-Janthial is simply the leading domaine of the Côte Chalonnaise. What is more, the astonishing Vincent Dureuil is equally adept at making both white and red wines. Vincent inherited from the Janthial side of his family, who have been in Rully since the eighteenth century. Vincent and his wife Céline took over in 1994. As they say 'because wine is first grown in the vineyard, we have chosen to respect the land and let the soils and vineyards live, to produce committed and accurate wines, of great purity and a frank personality.'
The domaine now extends to 20 hectares, 17 in the Côte Chalonnaise (primarily Rully and Mercurey) with 3 hectares in the Côte d'Or, including vines inherited by Céline in Nuits Saint Georges, and some inherited by Vincent in Puligny. The domaine was certified organic in 2009, but after short harvests in 2012 and 2013, Vincent was forced by a late attack of mildew in 2016 to spray with fungicide. The result was that he saved 5 hectares out of the 20, but lost his certification. Stubbornly he immediately set about the three years of 'conversion' he must do before he can be certified again. For this perfectionist, being 'nearly organic' does not quite cut it.
At the harvest all the grapes are hand-picked into small cases for transort to the winery. The white wines are pressed hard - although he is clear that for this the grapes have to be ripe and in perfect condition, he believes it's necessary with Chardonnay to get into the solid matter of the grape. The juice is allowed to oxidise under the press and S02 is only added 12 hours after the pressing, so that a dark brown liquid, after the settling out, is what goes into barrel where it will be clarified by the fermentation. The barrels are also chosen with great care - they are there to bring out the minerality, to add a touch of density, and they are minimally toasted. The whites get up to 20% new wood, the reds up to 30%.
The vinification of the reds takes place after an intense selection in the vineyard and at the sorting table. For now, despite experiments with some whole-bunch fermentations, Vincent destems almost everything. The grapes go into old open-topped wooden vats and are held at 6C for around eight days of cold maceration before a classic fermentation that reaches up to 34C. After the fermentation they go into barrel for a year, before bottling by March of the year after.
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