2018 1er Cru Frionnes Domaine Hubert Lamy
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Decomposed limestone. A nicely balanced vineyard in terms of water retention, says Olivier. Cool and fresh, a taut phenolic dryness - very straight and fresh and firm, with intensity on the finish. L&S (Oct 2019)
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The 2018 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru retains the estuarine scents that I picked out from barrel but they have shut down since bottling. Quite viscous on the palate with praline and lemon curd. The tropical fruit in this Frionnes that was hidden last year, have come to the fore, rendering it almost Chenin Blanc-like. Drinking range: 2023 - 2040 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Dec 2020)
The 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes was showing brilliantly, soaring from the glass with notes of pear, lemon oil, wheat toast and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's layered and complete, with lively acids and a long, precise finish. At 13.8% alcohol, this is one of the riper wines in the cellar, yet that was imperceptible when I tased it. Rating: 91-93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate(Feb 2020)
Chalky/stony citrus. Very high acidity – a little too tart for balance but it is super-pure and might appeal to acid lovers, especially with food. The gently creamy texture helps to bring balance. Drinking range: 2021 - 2025 Rating: 16 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2020)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and in 2016 and 2017 there was no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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