2018 Rouge 1er Cru Clos des Gravières Domaine Hubert Lamy
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
|Vineyard||Clos des Gravières|
Again tasted before racking, but this was showing real elegance - there's limestone here and the lift it gives is coming through loud and clear - quite a big wine but very nicely balanced. L&S (Oct 2019)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) has turned out brilliantly in bottle, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, wild plums, woodsmoke and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, perfumed and charming, with a fleshy core of fruit, velvety tannins and lively acids, it's deep and concentrated. Lamy may be better-known for his whites, but anyone who tastes this Santenay will understand that his talents are far from being confined to Chardonnay. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)
The 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Gravières (Rouge) derives from vines planted at a density of 20,000 plants per hectare, and Lamy rolls the canopies here rather than hedging during the growing season. Mingling aromas of wild berries, cassis and orange rind with hints of forest floor and deep spice tones, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and textural, with incredible concentration without weight, exquisitely refined tannins and a long, sapid finish. Rating: 92-94 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Feb 2020)
Minty aroma, slightly floral and white pepper. Spicy palate. Full fruitiness. Smooth tannins. I like the bite and the freshness. Slight minerality on the finish. 70% whole bunch. Rating: 90 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2019)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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