2019 La Roche Domaine Daniel Barraud
The class of this vineyard on the rock always stands out, and this has an airy lift, a mineral side, and a juicy citrus brightness, all with the concentration of the year. Drinking range: 2021 - 2025 L&S (Oct 2020)
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The 2019 Mâcon-Vergisson La Roche is disarmingly pretty on the nose with exuberant peach and apricot scents that don’t hold back. The palate is balanced with a rounded, quite spicy opening with bitter lemon and orange pith towards its simple finish. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Drinking range: 2021 - 2024 Rating: 87-89 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Cask sample. Rather beery nose. Very different indeed from the chiselled, almost tart Chagnoleau wines. Very much the product of ambient yeast surely? Really has an impact on the palate. An interesting wine! Lots of grip and pure fruit. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
This is a high altitude east-north-east facing vineyard. A touch fuller in colour, more in the fresh apples mode and lightly saline, as befits a vineyard at higher altitude. Good length though, with an attractively crunchy feel. Rating: 86-87 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2020)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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