2019 Clos Saint Pancras Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
|Other||Vegetarian, Practicing Organic, Vegan|
|Vineyard||Clos Saint Pancras|
While this wine has a fair whack of acidity, like the other whites, it is also the proud possessor of unusually delicate Chardonnay fruit. My favourite restaurant wines use acidity to anchor the wine to the palate and cut through any fat or juiciness and then calmness and magical nuances to charm the senses while allowing the food to shine through. This delightful Mâcon dances across the palate and caresses your senses. Matthew Jukes, Moneyweek (May 2021)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
This was bottled on the 28th August, and is 12.8%. Aged entirely in large foudres. Bright and fresh and full of expressive juicy fruit - everything is more concentrated than the 2018 - and the acidity is excellent giving lots of energy. Drinking range: 2020 - 2024L&S (Oct 2020)
The 2019 Mâcon-Villages Clos Saint Pancras has a straightforward nose of Granny Smith apples, frangipane and light linen aromas. The palate is balanced but quite primal and grapey, missing the same complexity as the Saint Vérans from the Domaine. Drinking range: 2021 - 2023 Rating: 87 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Good lively richly citric nose. Masses of rather-too-prominent acidity and a slightly salty, sudden finish. Not quite enough fruit on the mid palate. Drinking range: 2021 - 2024 Rating: 15 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Frantz Chagnoleau and his wife Caroline Gon, who is also the winemaker at the Comte Lafon Mâcon operation, are rising stars of the Mâconnais. Together they have a small domaine consisting of 3.5 hectares of Mâcon in a single block in Saint Albain, and several small plots in Viré Clessé, Saint Véran and Pouilly Fuissé, making up 6.8 hectares in total. All the vineyards are organically farmed (Ecocert certified).
Great care is taken at harvest to pick at the optimum moment for sugars, acidity and aromatic precursors, and they will stop the picking between parcels if they think that the ripening is not even across the whole domaine. Grapes are manually picked into 25kg cases, so as to get whole, undamaged grapes to the winery. After careful pressing, a very non-interventionist vinification takes place with natural yeasts in oak foudres.
The wines are kept on the lees to preserve freshness until the beginning of summer, when they are racked and lightly filtered, before bottling before the next harvest, except for some of the top wines which are aged for another six months in tank in order to develop fully. The wines are in a style which is bright and incisive, expressive and pure - and well worth seeking out.
Macon Villages Le Clos Saint Pancras : 3.55 ha
These vines were planted in 2000. Frantz uses a little bit of new wood - 10%. Élevage in demi-muids. This is the most northerly plot he works and it is high (350m) - facing east and made up of mineral, stony soil.
Viré Clessé Les Raspillères : 0.73 ha
Planted in 2005. A 30% slope and poor soil, thin at the top. Originally planted with Gamay, it was abandoned after phylloxera, then brought back from being scrubland by a forester who was passionate about wine and who realised it had once been a vineyard.
St Véran Prélude : 2.3 ha
Poor, calcareous soils. 15% new wood in demi-muids (500l barrels). 45 year old vines in several plots - the earliest ripening.
St Véran la Roche : 0.42 ha
70 year old vines at 200m in Chasselas, on marl, in mid-slope. Some is aged in demi-muids, but mostly it's in barrel with 10% new wood.
St Véran à La Côte : 0.25 ha
The highest vineyard of the domaine at 400m, on red earth, in Chasselas. Aged in demi-muids with no new wood.
St Véran La Fournaise : 0.21ha
All aged in demi-muids with no new wood. The whitest and most mineral soil they have.
Pouilly Fuissé Pastoral : 0.45 ha
Pouilly Fuissé Madrigal : 0.25 ha
From Vergisson, (mostly 'en Carmentrant') and all aged in barrel, but no new wood even if some are recent.
Just when you think Burgundy is getting a tad expensive, some other upward pressures are applied to prices - small yields and a weak Sterling are the current factors. Luckily for you, there are merchants out there (or here, to be precise) with the nouse to seek out good value even in a region where good value can feel hard to come by. Here's a fine selection of our Very Good Value red and whites - not necessarily cheap enough to tempt the less discerning away from the discount supermarket but it does mean that us ordinary mortals can still afford to drink Burgundy.
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