2019 sur la Roche Domaine Daniel Barraud
|Vineyard||Sur la Roche|
Tighter yet than les Crays, and Julien says in needs a racking which would open it up a bit. Very classical lines, very mineral, but not really playing yet aromatically, even if the density of flavour to come is evident on the long, firm finish. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028 L&S (Oct 2020)
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The 2019 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur La Roche has quite a feisty, slightly feral nose with touches of walnut and a light flor-like scent. The palate is well balanced with a dash of white pepper on the entry, moderate levels of acidity with a spicy finish that feels a little drier than say, the En Buland of La Verchère. Fine, but maybe not long-term. Drinking range: 2021 - 2027 Rating: 89 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Quite deep coppery green. Broad, spicy nose. Really very big and lots of richness. I wouldn't mind just a tad more acidity actually but it should be good drinking in the short term. Drinking range: 2021 - 2024 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
Clean pale yellow in colour, with a slight reduction to the nose. Classical hillside chardonnay with mineral energy. A really pure clean intense mouthful, white fruit, some yellow notes, a little touch of spicy bacon, nothing of sucrosity, all in balance. Everything knits together at the finish. Rating: 91-93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2020)
Domaine Daniel Barraud
Daniel and Martine Barraud, now joined by their son Julien and daughter Anaïs, have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but all of Daniel's wines have their own character, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not as Daniel says - for the sake of it, but because over the generations experience has taught them these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. The Domaine is working toward organic certification. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote in 2014 in Burghound 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.' (www.Burghound.com).
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