2019 1er Cru Folatières Domaine Berthelemot
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Quite dumb on the nose in October 2020, but the palate is another story, singing the sunny-side up frank and open Folatières song - all there, juicy and lifted - it's just gorgeous. The Domaine's vines run the whole height of the plot from bottom to top. L&S (Oct 2020)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru offers Granny Smith apple and wet limestone scents on the nose. The palate conveys scents of tropical fruit on the entry, guava and passion fruit, a patina of creamy oak to be subsumed with time. There is decent length in the Les Folatières, though it needs more tension and nerve on the finish. Drinking range: 2022 - 2027 Rating: 88 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2021)
Lemon-cream sensation with quite a bit of heaviness to chew on. Not delicate but solid and would drink well with food, presumably. A tad hot on the end. Drinking range: 2023 - 2029 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
Domaine Berthelemot is the creation of Brigitte Berthelemot, who is, by all accounts, something of a tour de force. Brigitte has, in a very short space of time (starting in 2006), knocked together a domaine of 15 hectares, spread over 45 parcels.
The basis of this spread was Domaine Garaudet in Pommard, but then they also took over Domaine Allexant. Charles Allexant was a bouilleur de cru (distiller of marc) who went round the villages plying his trade and who knew the Côte well, and also the vignerons for whom he distilled. In 1957 he bought a first vineyard in Volnay, and others followed, so that he built up a patchwork from Gevrey to the Côte Chalonnaise.
The final piece of the jigsaw was the purchase of Domaine Marey in Pernand.
The whole domaine is worked organically and they are just finishing the conversion so that they will be certified from 2021.
The vinification is overseen by Brigitte with the help of head winemaker Marc Cugney. Brigitte's son Thomas has been working alongside as 'a student' for three years. The reds are picked into small cases in which they are transported to the winery - and vinified in stainless steel after a 4 day cold maceration. Extraction is gentle and mostly by remontage. The wines then go into barrel with a maximum of 20% new wood. The whites are pressed, and after a short débourbage, are put in tank, where they begin their fermentation. Once the fermentation is under way, they are moved to barrel, with a maximum of 25% new wood.
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