|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Discreet wood influence can be found on the spicy and intensely floral aromas of apple, pear and citrus rind. There is outstanding volume and borderline painful intensity to the mineral suffused medium weight plus flavors that coat the palate with dry extract while exhibiting superb length on the dense, serious and youthfully austere finish. In the context of what is typical for the vineyard, this is a big Garenne that rivals the quality of the Bâtard. Drinking range: 2031 - Rating: 94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2021)
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Pick two days later than Trézin, which is next door. Garenne is on a limestone hump below the thicker soil of Trézin, which is more backward in the hot height of summer. Lemon and lime colour. The aromatics have not yet fallen into place, but the wine fares better in the mouth, with enough flesh through the middle, and a balanced aftertaste. Tasted: October 2020 *** Rating: 90-93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Oct 2020)
Domaine Joseph Colin
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and after that Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.
Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2020 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Generally nothing is either fined or filtered. He is very aware of biodynamics, but says that the tides are more important than just the phase of the moon, and that he places less importance on whether it's a fruit or flower day - for him the important thing is not to manipulate a wine when it's tasting good - you must do it when it's not showing well.
Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity and crystalline definition.
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