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SAINT AUBIN

2019 Haute Densité 1er Cru Derrière Chez Édouard Domaine Hubert Lamy

EN PRIMEUR
ChardonnayWhiteFrance,BurgundyCôte d'OrCôte de BeauneSaint Aubin1er Cru 13%Derrière Chez Édouard

The 2019 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard "Haut Densité" 1er Cru has a taut, focused nose that needs time in the glass to really open up (something that may have led to my parsimonious score when I tasted this from barrel). The palate has really opened up in recent months, now offering exquisite balance, fine extract and a silver bead of acidity that counterbalances the concentration. Very persistent in the mouth – you feel as if you have just sucked on a rock! Brilliant. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2021)

* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.

(from a vine density equivalent of 30,000 vines/ha). Befitting this vineyard’s position high on the hill, the beautifully layered nose is decidedly cool with its restrained aromas of green apple, iodine and mineral reduction. There is excellent concentration thanks to the abundant dry extract that coats the palate with sap as well as buffers the firm acid spine shaping the beautifully, long, balanced and complex finale. Good stuff that should amply repay extended cellaring. Drinking range: 2031 - Rating: 92-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2021)

Deep and electric, the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Densité unwinds in the glass with hints of pear, citrus oil, white flowers, fresh bread and toasted hazelnuts. Full-bodied, multidimensional and strikingly concentrated, it's layered and elegantly muscular, with racy acids and a long, precise finish. As I wrote last year, obtaining even a bottle will require considerable guile and a large disposable income, but what pleasures await the lucky few who will taste this profound white Burgundy. Rating: 94 - 96+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard "Haut Densité" 1er Cru is not as expressive on the nose as the Puligny Tremblots, though that is just a phase it is going through. The palate is saline on the entry with sour lemon, peach skin and Conference pear, tapering towards the finish whereas the Tremblots appears to "stretch its arms". I will be prudent with my score for now. Drinking range: 2023 - 2038 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)

Pale colour with even a lime green tint. Touch of reduction here. Altogether more tightly wound than the Puligny version of Haute densité, with a bevy of different citrus fruit at the finish. Less sensual, but a much more valid intensity. A more classical wine. Tasted: October 2020 ***** Rating: 93-95 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy  (Oct 2020)

Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.

Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.

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