2020 Les Hauts de la Combe Domaine Joseph Colin
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Bottled in September. This comes from a plot at the bottom of Puligny - the vines are next to those of Vincent Dureuil. Fresh with a nice tension, juice and ripeness in the mid-palate and a lovely consistency too. Drinking range: 2023 - 2028 L&S (Nov 2021)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
(from Puligny vines). Riper aromas feature notes of pear compote, citrus zest and freshly sliced apple. The delicious medium weight flavors also possess very good underlying tension while displaying fine length on the youthfully austere and slightly firmer finale. This too is a very good example and worth a look. Drinking range: 2024 - Rating: 87 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2022)
From two plots so now called Les Hauts de la Combe to bring in the names of the two lieux -dits. This has been bottled without fining or filtering. Pale colour, light yellow fruit, but again these are not high levels of ripeness. Very slight confection at the back but a good volume of fruit and excellent clean acidity. Tasted: November 2021 Rating: 86 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Dec 2021)
Domaine Joseph Colin
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and after that Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.
Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2020 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Generally nothing is either fined or filtered. He is very aware of biodynamics, but says that the tides are more important than just the phase of the moon, and that he places less importance on whether it's a fruit or flower day - for him the important thing is not to manipulate a wine when it's tasting good - you must do it when it's not showing well.
Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity and crystalline definition.
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