CHÂTEAU MARGAUX

A stunning, riveting wine, the 2020 Margaux is classic as classic gets. Racy, elegant and super-refined, the 2020 possesses magnificent balance. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, spice and bright mineral notes build as this super-expressive Margaux builds over time in the glass. The 2020 is not an obvious wine, but then again Château Margaux rarely is. I love the energy and vibrancy here. Margaux is very clearly one of the wines of the vintage in 2020. It’s a tremendous effort from the team led by Estate Manager Philippe Bascaules. Drinking range: 2035 - 2060 Rating: 97-99 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Jun 2021)

Much like the Deuxième Vin, the 2020 Château Margaux has a discreet nose; it is not interested in fireworks or in dazzling the taster. At first unassuming, it unfolds with black cherries, blueberry and signature crushed violet aromas, all delivered with the delineation and purity expected from an estate of this standing. Looking deeper, one finds touches of potpourri and India ink. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and crisp acidity, perhaps more noticeable on the 2020 compared to the previous two vintages. This Margaux is surfeit with tension and coiled-up, nascent energy, then it tightens up toward a linear finish that strangely recalls a Pauillac, thanks to a subtle graphite note that lingers on the saline aftertaste. This is a classically styled Château Margaux that will gain weight and depth during its élevage. Cerebral and sophisticated, and one of the wines of the Left Bank in 2020. Drinking range: 2026 - 2060 Rating: 97-99 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2021)

The 2020 Château Margaux is a more concentrated, dense wine that has the vintage's massive dry extract paired with more moderate alcohol levels and building tannins. Blackcurrants, sandalwood, tobacco leaf, and graphite give way to a full-bodied, rich, powerful Château Margaux that's flawlessly balanced, has a stacked mid-palate, and a great finish. It's one for the ages, though, and don't expect much up-front appeal. It almost reminds me of the 1996, yet with slightly more density. It's a quintessential beauty that will be just about immortal. Rating: 96-98 Jeb Dunnuck, www.jebdunnuck.com (May 2021)

Philippe Bascaules is a fascinating chap and his commentary and frankness made for a brilliant tasting. While I would prefer to taste at the Château I am not complaining about the many Zoom tastings I have been party to because instead of running into the tasting room and tasting and writing notes in 30 minutes flat before charging off to the next appointment, I have had the pleasure to tasting the wines this year over hours, revisiting the finest repeatedly in order to deep dive into their souls. Philippe explained that while the beginning of the season was rather challenging with warm, humid weather meaning that they had to work hard to protect their crops from mildew, the summer was hot and while it didn’t rain up until the 10th August, between the 10th and 20th August they experience a good few showers with 80mm falling on the 13th alone which changed the fortunes at Margaux! The vines loved this opportunity to drink up the rainfall and feed the grapes, and with lower temperatures arriving, too, the vines were in tremendous condition. From 20th August until the end of September they enjoyed great weather, picking perfectly ripe grapes with the ideal balance of richness coming from the skins and freshness from the juice. Aromatic and also refreshing, these delicate traits bookend a mesmerisingly deep and luxurious mid-palate with eye-catching silkiness bounded by an extraordinary energy. This is a signature Margaux and as Philippe explained, “the storm in August made this wine”. It is fascinating to think that famous wines are usually made in warm vintages with near-drought conditions, but in 2020, Margaux is undoubtedly one of the finest wines and its MD recognises that a storm was responsible for its greatness. With this in mind, 2020 Margaux is not a full-bodied, creamy style, but a silky, languid creature with an all-enveloping perfume, deep, wild berry tones, amazingly regal oak and staggering length. It manages to combine Margaux’s trademark elegance and tenderness with superb structure and finesse. The tannins are also exquisite and they cradle this wine perfectly. In 2020 Mouton is quintessential Mouton, Haut-Brion is an outlier in all respects and it shocks as much as it impresses, while Margaux also manages to hit the high notes while retaining its precise personality and signature. All three are stunning wines and all three sit atop my deliberations this year, but they could not be more different and this is exactly why I like them so much. Rating: 19.5 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (May 2021)

The 2020 Château Margaux is composed of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, accounting for 36% of the harvest. The alcohol weighs in at 13.5%, the IPT is 80 and the pH is 3.67. Displaying an opaque purple-black color, it needs a lot of air, time and patience to coax out the youthfully reticent nose of blueberry preserves, blackcurrant pastilles and Black Forest cake, followed by suggestions of lavender, clove oil, iron ore and menthol with wafts of star anise and candied violets. The medium to full-bodied palate is wonderfully opulent, featuring tightly wound yet beautifully pure layers of black fruits and earthy nuances within a solid structure of firm yet velvety tannins and exhilarating freshness, finishing with very long-lingering earth and mineral notes. Another stunning expression of the vintage by Philippe Bascaules and his team—bravo! Drinking range: 2028 - 2068 Rating: 97-99 Lisa Perrotti-Brown, RobertParker.com (May 2021)

A brilliant Margaux; one that takes a sigh and then releases the huge floral, eucalyptus and crushed mint whoosh that comes in waves though the palate. You get the concentration of the vintage in an entirely positive light, with a suave softness to the tannins that makes it stand head and shoulders above many others. Plenty in common with the 1996 vintage - the knitted down tannins, the completeness, the juicy blackcurrant purity and acidity on the finish, and the certainty of long ageing. Real clarity of flavour. Alcohol level is lower than both the 2018 and 2019, but tannins and anthocyanins are at the same level as in 2018. 36% of overall harvest, and 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. A yield of 36hl/ha. Drinking range: 2028 - 2044 Rating: 98-100 Jane Anson, Decanter (May 2021)

89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc. Gorgeous wine that is both classic and expressive. Aromatically complex with floral, mineral and dark-fruit notes. Quality of tannins superb from entry to finish, the texture smooth and velvety. Lovely freshness, poise and length. Perfect pitch. Definitely has the edge on 2019 and 2018. Drinking range: 2030 - 2055 Rating: 19 James Lawther MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2021)