SAINT AUBIN
2020 1er Cru Frionnes Domaine Hubert Lamy
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
| Village | Saint Aubin |
| Classification | 1er Cru |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Frionnes |
Limestone scree on Kimmeridgian on the east side of Saint Aubin. Light fresh nose and floral delicacy, starts soft and then the acidity comes, so it's slightly in two parts for now. Pretty lovely with a saline mineral finish. Drinking range: 2026 - 2038 L&S (Oct 2022)
| 12 | ||
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
Made from vines of all ages, planted between 1935 and 2011. Lemon and lime colour. The bouquet shows a complex floral character, racy on the palate before deepening, perhaps as the old vines kick in. Some youthful bitterness. A little bit more hidden today but with considerable potential. Tasted: November 2022. Drinking range: 2026 - 2032 Rating: **** Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Apr 2023)
The 2020 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru, a mix of 10- and 80-year-old vines, is elegant on the nose and quite refined. Touches of orchard fruit and white peach and just a hint of marzipan in the background that betrays the warm summer. The palate is well-balanced, very saline, taut and focused. Then, it clams down on the finish and orders you to come back in 3-4 years to see if it's ready for business. Drinking range: 2027 - 2043 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2023)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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