2021 Domaine Joseph Colin
|Côte de Beaune
From Journoblots, Meix Goudard and others. First parcels he picked in 2021, and it gave 25 hl/ha, not bad in the context of the year, although half a normal yield. Both rich and tensile, with a fine mineral blade though all the weight with is attractive, Juicy, dryly mineral and long. Drinking range: 2024 - 2033 L&S (Oct 2022)
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(from Les Meix Goudard, Blanchot Dessous and En Journoblot). A more complex if not more elegant nose combines notes of resin, petrol and pear with a range of citrus nuances. There too the medium-bodied flavors possess a beguiling texture that is at once rich yet focused while evidencing good power on the impressively long finish. This could also use better depth but in this case I’m more optimistic that will occur in time. Drinking range: 2027 - Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2023)
From three good white wine spots. This has one of the most refined bouquets of the line-up. Really very good this year, perfectly balanced, more flesh, white fruit, good sound length. Drinking range: 2024 - 2028 Rating: 90-92 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Oct 2022)
Domaine Joseph Colin
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and after that Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.
Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2020 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Generally nothing is either fined or filtered. He is very aware of biodynamics, but says that the tides are more important than just the phase of the moon, and that he places less importance on whether it's a fruit or flower day - for him the important thing is not to manipulate a wine when it's tasting good - you must do it when it's not showing well.
Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity and crystalline definition.
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