CHÂTEAU DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU

Still in barrel at the time of tasting (bottling due in August 2023), showing a seductive smoked cedar, soot and campfire chararater, layers of sculpted dark fruits, and rose petal aromatics, this is well structured, softens in the mid palate to reveal creamy blackberry and raspberry fruit, with savoury salted cracker. Unquestionably one of the wines to go to within a challenging vintage, really stands out. Harvest September 23 to October 11. 100% new oak. A tiny crop, below 20hl/h, which accounts for the high percentage of Cabernet. Emmanuel Bonneau technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant. Drinking range: 2027 - 2044 Rating: 96 Jane Anson, Decanter (May 2023)

98 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2 Merlot | 100% new oak – matured for 18 months. | 12.5% alc | 3.88pH | 102 IPT They battled with frost across the Bruno Borie portfolio, but while it was not a problem at Ducru, it was definitely a huge headache at Madame where they lit bougis and used fans for four or five nights. Merlot was most affected with coulure and some millerandange, and then in June and July, they were subjected to record incidences of mildew. Predictive modelling helped the viticulture teams to treat every facet of the vines, and they doubled the squad for eight weeks to around 80 people. This ‘vine cleaning’ significantly reduced volume potential, yet they managed to harvest perfectly ripe grapes. There was no need to green harvest because much of the foliage and some of the bunches had already been removed. 2021 is, in essence, an ode to Cabernet. While Merlot was more problematic up and down the Left Bank, Cabernet proved to be more resistant to all of the climatic challenges at Ducru. Tracey Dobbin MW took me through the range. Her knowledge of the behind-the-scenes decisions was invaluable in understanding why this is such a strong portfolio in this vintage. For example, a small heat spike at the beginning of September knocked out any potential pyrazine, or green, notes that so many of the lesser wines show. They were cautious to avoid any botrytis-affected grapes by forensic sorting. They did this our times – at picking, then manually, then at de-stemming, and finally with an optical sorting machine. The new R&D team even trialled UV treatments in three distinct zones in the vineyard, and who knows whether this worked, but either way, the wines are stunningly pure, so perhaps it had some effect. Extraction had to be very carefully managed because the skins were packed with flavour, but they were still relatively fragile and so supersoft handling was essential, and they only performed remontage in early phases. This background information supports the beguiling perfume and exquisite intensity found in this wine. Pure, long and upright, and built of amazingly ingredients, this is a catwalk confident Cabernet, staring straight ahead and striding down the catwalk with intent. The fruit on the palate is astonishingly mouth-filling and sumptuous, and yet with only 12.5% alcohol on board, it is also lithe, shape-shifting, refreshing and chillingly bright. Insanely attractive, amazingly concentrated and brutally elegant, this is one of only a handful of wines that seems to have accepted every challenge thrown at it in 2021 and come back even stronger and more determined to impress. Rating: 19 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jun 2022)

Firm, structured and pure with a cool and solid core of dark currants, blackberries, tar, pencil lead and bitter chocolate. Hints of tobacco, too. Firm but silky tannins. Very pure, with a long, mineral finish. Intense and very focused. 98% cabernet sauvignon and 2% merlot. Rating: 96-97 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (May 2022)

The 2021 Ducru-Beaucaillou was picked at around 24hL/ha and matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, as is customary. It takes time to unfold in the glass, revealing intense blackberry, raspberry, iris flowers and a touch of spice. Very precise, though as expected, more understated than previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with a sappy, saline entry and good grip. Classic in style, fanning out toward the finish, and briny on the aftertaste. This is a fascinating, almost old-school Ducru-Beaucaillou. Drinking range: 2028 - 2050 Rating: 94-96 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2022)

The 2021 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a pretty significant departure from the past, as it is nearly pure Cabernet Sauvignon. A deep, aristocratic wine, the 2021 possesses remarkable intensity from start to finish. Inky dark fruit, bittersweet chocolate and leather are some of the myriad nuances that develop with some aeration. The 2021 is so well balanced. The 100% new oak, often quite dominant in Ducru en primeur, is so well integrated, likely because lower alcohol extracted less oak imprint. The 2021 is a drop dead gorgeous wine, and a Ducru for the ages. Superb. Drinking range: 2031 - 2061 Rating: 96-98 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2022)