MOREY SAINT DENIS
2021 Vieilles Vignes Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Grapes | Pinot Noir |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
Village | Morey Saint Denis |
ABV | 12.5% |
Cognets and Clos Solon, both higher up the slope than the 'grains fins' but more typical Morey terroir with deep clay making broader-shouldered wines. Greater fruit density, darker berries, greater tannic density, even so it's not a real heavyweight, just more of a food wine. Drinking range: 2028 - 2036 L&S (Oct 2022)
12 | ||
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
(from Les Cognées and Clos Solon). Here too subtle wood sets off the cool and pure nose of plum, red currant, newly turned earth and a hint of crushed fennel. There is both better volume and density to the middleweight flavors that possess a velvety mouthfeel, all wrapped in a lingering, more firmly structured and more complex finale. In contrast to the Grain Fin, this will need at least a few years of keeping and should be approachable after 5 years or so of keeping Drinking range: 2029 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2023)
55+ years on more solid clay soils. A fuller richer colour, and a nose which is not quite so freewheeling. A solid mouthful of full raspberry fruit, some grainy tannins, enough acidity, long and with good intensity. Drinking range: 2025 - 2030 Rating: 89-92 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Nov 2022)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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