2021 1er Cru Chatenière Domaine Joseph Colin
|Côte de Beaune
18hl/ha. Normally Joseph's parcel in Chatenière is late ripening as it's low down and loses the sun early in the day, but with the low yield it ripened early and has the character of a sunny site, combined with the the fine mineral side from this rocky soil. Clearly ripe at the same time as being firm, taut and long. Drinking range: 2024 - 2033 L&S (Oct 2022)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
Here the equally restrained nose is dominated by a smoky petrol character along with background citrus nuances. There is slightly better volume and mid-palate density to the delicious middleweight flavors that possess a lovely texture and evident minerality on the very dry and lingering but not really austere finale. Lovely. Drinking range: 2028 - Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2023)
Clear pale lemon. An impression of density on the nose. This is much the most complete as it combines the extra fruit intensity of Champlots with more of a limestone minerality, so fleshy and fresh together. Very tasty! Drinking range: 2025 - 2028 Rating: 91-93 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Oct 2022)
Domaine Joseph Colin
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and after that Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuvées.
Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2020 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Generally nothing is either fined or filtered. He is very aware of biodynamics, but says that the tides are more important than just the phase of the moon, and that he places less importance on whether it's a fruit or flower day - for him the important thing is not to manipulate a wine when it's tasting good - you must do it when it's not showing well.
Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity and crystalline definition.
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