VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN

The 2021 Vieux Château Certan may very well be the wine of the vintage on the Right Bank. Intensely aromatic and nuanced, with exceptional balance, the 2021 is super-classy right out of the gate. Naturally, it doesn't have the richness or density of most prior vintages, but it more than makes up for that with its sublime harmony and overall freshness. All the elements are so well proportioned. Readers should plan on cellaring this beauty for at least another handful of years Drinking range: 2031 - 2061 Rating: 98 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Feb 2024)

As I mentioned during en primeur, the 2021 Vieux-Château-Certan is driven by the Cabernet components that represent 23% of the blend. Graphite, pencil shavings, tobacco and light gravelly scents percolate through the black fruit. This is unapologetically classic in style. The palate has exquisite balance and harmony—very poised with a perfect line of acidity. There is a linearity that suits VCC's style of Pomerol and wonderful salinity on the finish that lingers. This transcends the limitations of the growing season. Outstanding. Drinking range: 2028 - 2058 Rating: 96 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Feb 2024)

77 Merlot, 20 Cabernet Franc, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon | 65% new oak | 13.2% alc | 38 hl/ha | 66 IPT | 3.63 pH. Unlike many other famous estates in Pomerol, there is a sense that Alexandre and Guillaume Thienpont feel their way through vintages, as opposed to having, or even winging it with, a plan. I sense that if a hurricane arrived on the horizon, then their waste paper bin would receive another direct hit while they drew up a new and utterly relaxed recipe. This template might only last a day, but this openness, ability, and trust in their vineyards allows them never to lose faith in turning gloomy weather forecasts into invigoratingly delicious wines. So it was in 2021 when their old vine Merlot (some vines are 90 years old) kept its nerve and piloted this wine through the storms. Had they not pulled out a block of Cabernet Franc, it would have been jolly helpful in this wine, but I cannot sense any missing jigsaw piece. Guillaume explained that older vintages of VCC always had a sprinkle of Cabernet Sauvignon in the mix, and in 2021 they include fruit from vines planted in 2012. I can’t imagine how heart-warming it must feel to include the fruit from ten-year-old vines in a wine of this level of distinction. So, as always with VCC, my tasting note starts from the end and reverses (no idea why). The acidity and brightness of the finish bring incredible definition and pixelation to this wine. If only my eyesight were this acute. The perfumes and flavours here are delivered in HD - so thank goodness for one’s taste buds! You can experience every intricate detail here without relying on force, concentration or repetition. The persistence of the mildly-exotic cherry fruit and floral spice is sensational, and the silkiness (no more than medium-weight at any stage) is captivating. VCC is a wine that glides, not rolls, across the palate. And then, eventually, the finish scratches to a halt on the palate with a scuff of ultra-fine tannins like a speed-skater going from full pelt to a standing stop in a moment. How amazing that this property didn’t freeze, mildew was in check, and the four weeks of sunshine helped make a good vintage into an epic one. And, Immortelle is alive in this wine, too; Guillaume’s eyes flickered when I mentioned this wizardly trait. Rating: 19.5 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jun 2022)

This has a classic structure, wet stones, smoked earth, plenty of sappy redcurrant and cassis fruits, graphite and subdued power, will easily age for 15 to 20 years. The emphasis is on graceful structure rather than exuberant fruits, but it has clarity and complexity, and the most beautifully drawn out finish. Skilful winemaking. No chaptilisation, 65% new oak, 3.63ph. Harvest September 24 to October 6. Drinking range: 2028 - 2040 Rating: 95 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2022)

The 2021 Vieux Château Certan is a spectacular tour de force from Alexander and Guillaume Thienpont. What a wine. Vibrant and magnificent in its precision, the 2021 races across the palate, revealing seemingly endless layers of nuance over time. Dark blue/purplish fruit, cinnamon, new leather, graphite, lavender and crushed rocks all build effortlessly. The Cabernets are dialed up in 2021 and that comes through in the wine's flavor profile and overall feel. The purity of the flavors is just mind-bending. Harvest took place between September 25 and October 4. The blend is 67% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Readers who can find the 2021 should not hesitate, as it is truly magical. Drinking range: 2031 - 2061 Rating: 96-98 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2022)