CHABLIS
2023 Grand Cru Vaudésirs Domaine Raoul Gautherin
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| Other | Vegan, Vegetarian |
| District | Chablis |
| Classification | Grand Cru |
| ABV | 13.5% |
| Vineyard | Vaudésirs |
The Vaudésir is aged partly in wood (600l demi-muids), and partly in tank. Adrien's idea is to get to having nearly all in wood, but as he wants to avoid any 'woody' aromas, he started with one demi-muid when he took over in 2017, and has added one at a time since, so that the new wood is well-diluted in the total. The colour difference is obvious - a deeper gold. The initial touch shows a little bit of wood tannin, but soon enough the wine comes through - intense - it's a full-flavoured style, totally harmonious in the mouth, so that it gathers pace and gourmandise. Mouth-watering, terrifically hard not to swallow! Drinking range: 2026 - 2045 L&S (Oct 2025)
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The 2023 Chablis Vaudésirs Grand Cru is one of Gautherin's strongest cuvées and that is no different this year. It has a brilliant crystalline purity on the nose that outshines the Les Clos. This is razor-sharp, which is some achievement given the warmth of the summer. The palate is likewise built around a silver thread of acidity. It's intense, powerful, linear and electric on the finish. I served a glass to my dad, who rarely drinks wine. "That's one of the best wines I have ever drunk," he remarked. And it probably was... Drinking range: 2027 - 2049 Rating: 95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2025)
Domaine Raoul Gautherin
Who knew that there was a top domaine in Chablis with a wide range Grands Crus, without a UK importer in 2025? Well thank you Neal Martin for this one - what a great discovery!
Clearly Raoul and his son Alain (who I am sure I visited in another, pre-L&S life, in about 1985 or 1986) have put this domaine on a fantastic footing. Judging by the 1992 Montmains which I drank with Alain's son Adrien, Alain himself was no slouch at winemaking either. But it seems that the arrival of Adrien in 2017 has added a whole new level of precision and intent.
What is truly remarkable is the way that many of the wines are treated individually for their own specificity - the Chablis is cold fermented and aged in tank, the Chablis Vieilles Vignes is aged 12 months in barrel, The Montmains is vinified and aged in concrete eggs, the Lys is aged up to 24 months in tank, the Vaudésir aged in barrel, and then the Vaudésir Reserve is aged longer yet in tank.
Our first tasting here was a revelation, and we very much look forward working with Adrien over the long term.
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