VINTAGE REPORT

‘2018 marks a return to classicism for Brunello.’ Roberto Fuligni, January 2023

After the stifling heat spikes and droughts that plagued the 2017 season in Montalcino – 2018 arrived with a refreshingly different feel. In fact, in a long run of warmer years that have followed from the rich 2015 – right up until the toasty 2022 harvest, it is only in 2018 where winemakers have had any real respite. 2018 was a year with fewer extremes and the wines stand out as more classically shaped and refined as a result.

However, having tasted over 100 different 2018s, we have not yet been able to draw one clear picture of the vintage here. For all the delight that it was not as hot as previous years – the cooler weather was not always ideal either - and so it is a great year for revealing the real quality of both winemakers and terroirs.

We could not be happier with the great successes our stable of long-standing partners have achieved in 2018. Padelettti and Fuligni in the north-eastern sector of Montalcino, both released gorgeously elegant and deeply refined wines. Perfumed but not lightweight – these are charming, classical wines that will thrill and delight. Whereas, in the southern sector, Giodo and Collemattoni had slightly warmer weather, allowing the fruit to ripen sooner. The results here have a softer appeal, with a shade more weight at the heart of these wines. Both are instantly enchanting and very approachable.

2018’s average daily temperatures remained 5 degrees lower than in 2017 throughout the season – and there was enough water early on to give the vines a vigorous and healthy start. In fact, the cool and damp spring was just what the vineyards needed after the scorchingly dry summer before. Yet sunshine is also required – and so it was with relief that things warmed up nicely in July. The vines thrived and yet it never overshot, it seemed as if we were steadily on track for perfection…

August though did not completely follow the plan – with temperatures cooling and almost daily showers in some spots making life difficult. Indeed, it was this humidity that became the most serious challenge. Skill, attentiveness and diligence amongst the vines were, consequently, the keys to success. A constant watch was needed to combat the risks of mildew and rot. Canny producers thinned out both leaves and bunches to ensure that drying wind and warming sunlight got to the grapes to allow full phenolic ripeness.

The final complication for winemakers is always when to pick: the hunt for that fine line between perfect maturity of the grapes and the risk of Autumnal weather striking was nerve-wracking in 2018, and only made more critical with a couple of rainstorms that passed through. Our growers walked this viticultural tightrope with deft aplomb. Giodo and Collemattoni in the warmer south opting to pick sooner, before the rain - while both Padeletti and Fuligni boldly held out for more hangtime and waited until the end September, once the rain had passed. This allowed for wines with two more weeks of weight and complexity gained from gentle ripening on the vine. A decision that has proved vital in helping balance the wonderful natural freshness of Sangiovese from this cooler sector in 2018.

Ultimately, 2018 was certainly not without its challenges in Montalcino, but it is a year where talented winemakers have made some superb wines. It is a year that gives us a scintillating reminder of the classic lines of fine Brunello - with grace, elegance and perfume – rather than power, weight and hefty intensity. Our four producers here have each allowed this sophisticated character to shine through. These are wines that have great approachability and a charm it is already hard to resist. However, do not confuse the lightness of touch or fine poise for simplicity!

We’re also excited about these wines’ potential for the mid-term future too. Critics are in agreement that the wines from Giodo, Padeletti and Fuligni will continue to evolve well for the next 10 to 15 years. Ignore these releases at your peril as they’ll delight when pulled from the cellar in as little as 5 years’ time, if you cannot hang on.

If you have any questions about the wines or would like to place an order, please email your account manager or privateclients@leaandsandeman.co.uk.

CHOICE REVIEWS

Eric Guido – Vinous.com

‘At the top level, many of the 2018 Brunellos come across as quite Burgundian in nature, where a combination of vividly dark, ripe fruit, balanced acidity and refined tannins add a brilliant dimension that shines already today yet promises a steady and prosperous evolution over time.’

Michaela Morris – Decanter

‘While 2018 proposes a few fantastic wines to tuck away, it is not a vintage to seek out for long ageing. Most wines will be accessible immediately and be at their best within the next 10 to 12 years.’