Côte de Nuits PART 2

This will be the prevailing message, when it comes to all wine from the 2022 vintage, but it is one we are very pleased to deliver – The Côte de Nuits wine are very ‘Côte de Nuits’. If you’re looking for something bold, structured and darker fruited, head to Nuits-Saint-Georges. If you’d like something sexy and sumptuous, Vosne Romanée is the answer. If perfume, red fruit and an ethereal transparency are on your cards, then Chambolle- Musigny delivers. If you wish for something regal, powerful and poised, then the Gevrey-Chambertin are spot on. It is perverse that in such an excellent vintage, it is hard to give meaningful commentary, each producer still has their hallmarks and as ever, with Burgundy, the devil is in the detail, but with 2022 Côte de Nuits, you can assure yourself that whatever you are purchasing, you are getting one of the very best possible representations of that producer and vineyard.

Jack Chapman, Head of Private Clients


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Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.

The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.

The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Maconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Cote de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard, in the same way.

2022 BOURGOGNE ROUGE Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

From Les Fremiers, Guérippes, Mal Carrées and Les Condemennes. Very ripe aromas include those of black raspberry liqueur, spice and pretty violet scents. The more refined but not especially denseFrom Les Fremiers, Guérippes, Mal Carrées and Les Condemennes. Very ripe aromas include those of black raspberry liqueur, spice and pretty violet scents. The more refined but not especially dense medium weight flavors also exude evident minerality on the dusty if slightly drying and short finale. This may come together but it's somewhat awkward today. Drinking range: 2030 - Rating: 86-89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 NUITS SAINT GEORGES Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

90% of the blend is from 80+ year old vines in Bas de Combes with the remainder in Aux Lavières. Notes of kirsch, cassis and poached plum lead to more vibrant if slightly less concentrated flavors90% of the blend is from 80+ year old vines in Bas de Combes with the remainder in Aux Lavières. Notes of kirsch, cassis and poached plum lead to more vibrant if slightly less concentrated flavors that conclude in a sappy, powerful, overtly rustic and more structured finale. Patience again absolutely needed. Drinking range: 2032 - Rating: 87-89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

The majority of this comes from Champs-Chenys, along with Creux Brouillard. This is also very ripe with its blend of red and dark wild currant aromas that have a liqueur-like quality to them. ThereThe majority of this comes from Champs-Chenys, along with Creux Brouillard. This is also very ripe with its blend of red and dark wild currant aromas that have a liqueur-like quality to them. There is again reasonably good vibrancy to the bigger-bodied and rich medium-bodied flavors that deliver solid persistence on the firm, serious, austere and rustic finale. Drinking range: 2034 - Rating: 87-90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 VOSNE ROMANÉE Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 VOSNE ROMANÉE Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Cask sample. Mid crimson. Fresher than the Domaine de Courcel wines. Ripe dark-red fruit but fresh. Bitter on the palate. (JH) Cask sample. Mid crimson. Fresher than the Domaine de Courcel wines. Ripe dark-red fruit but fresh. Bitter on the palate. (JH) Drinking range: 2028 - 2035 Rating: 15 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Feb 2024)

Magnums, case of 3

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75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1er Cru Les Vignes Rondes Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Fresh, soaring, pretty nose. The palate has this detail and delicacy too, with the structure taking an unobtrusive back seat (despite being very much there - this will live for decades). This couldFresh, soaring, pretty nose. The palate has this detail and delicacy too, with the structure taking an unobtrusive back seat (despite being very much there - this will live for decades). This could fool you into thinking it's from Vosne. L&S (Jan 2024)

Magnums, case of 3

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75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Craipillot Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Craipillot Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Tensile and fresh, this is a bit reticent for now. Some lovely red and blue Pinot fruit, delicately presented, it is already quite supple, but with an underlying structure which will warrant cellarTensile and fresh, this is a bit reticent for now. Some lovely red and blue Pinot fruit, delicately presented, it is already quite supple, but with an underlying structure which will warrant cellar time. L&S (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 VOSNE ROMANÉE 1er Cru Suchots Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 VOSNE ROMANÉE 1er Cru Suchots Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

A bit darker and richer than the Chambolles. This is a serious wine, which frames that classic Confuron spice and black fruit with a lot of structure. This will warrant patience, but will rewardA bit darker and richer than the Chambolles. This is a serious wine, which frames that classic Confuron spice and black fruit with a lot of structure. This will warrant patience, but will reward those who prefer the deeper side of Burgundy.L&S (Jan 2024)

Jeroboam, case of 1

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Magnums, case of 3

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75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Derrière la Grange Monopole Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY 1er Cru Derrière la Grange Monopole Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

High toned, zesty nose, all flowers and fresh fruit. The palate here is more closed, but the tannins and acidity aren't obtrusive - there is finesse, subtlety and power. It just needs time. High toned, zesty nose, all flowers and fresh fruit. The palate here is more closed, but the tannins and acidity aren't obtrusive - there is finesse, subtlety and power. It just needs time. L&S (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Petite Chapelle Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Petite Chapelle Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

The aromatic depth of this wine is quite amazing. The deep you inhale, the more your discover. it's full of such pretty red fruit, all framed with just enough polish and vanilla from the oak. AnThe aromatic depth of this wine is quite amazing. The deep you inhale, the more your discover. it's full of such pretty red fruit, all framed with just enough polish and vanilla from the oak. An unusual wine for Confuron Cotetidot, as Yves had to buy a new oak barrel due to the extra volume. A more populist style, which will appeal to most.L&S (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Lavaut Saint Jacques Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Lavaut Saint Jacques Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

From a .30 ha parcel. Generous wood and menthol are present on the ripe nose that blends the essence of wild red cherry and lavender with those of the sauvage, earth and a smoked meat component.From a .30 ha parcel. Generous wood and menthol are present on the ripe nose that blends the essence of wild red cherry and lavender with those of the sauvage, earth and a smoked meat component. The rich and caressing medium-bodied flavors possess a lovely sense of vibrancy before concluding in a moderately toasty if powerful and lingering bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. Drinking range: 2034 - Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 ÉCHEZEAUX Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

Big nose of fresh fruit with a touch of liquorice. The palate flows beautifully on from this, a silky layer of fruit over the pillow of structure. This is wonder wine which isn't over concentrated,Big nose of fresh fruit with a touch of liquorice. The palate flows beautifully on from this, a silky layer of fruit over the pillow of structure. This is wonder wine which isn't over concentrated, impenetrable or muscular, but it is very structured and fresh. It will require a decade of your patience, at least.L&S (Jan 2024)

Jeroboam, case of 1

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Magnums, case of 3

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75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

From a .30 ha parcel in Charmes proper. Moderate wood sets off notably ripe aromas that derive more from the red side of the fruit spectrum along with plenty of floral elements. There is good From a .30 ha parcel in Charmes proper. Moderate wood sets off notably ripe aromas that derive more from the red side of the fruit spectrum along with plenty of floral elements. There is good vibrancy to the relatively refined flavors that display reasonably good length on the mocha-inflected finish where a hint of warm eventually emerges. Drinking range: 2034 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

From vines situated next to those of Faiveley and Prieur near the bottom of the slope on the Vougeot side. An extremely ripe though not roasted nose reflects notes of black raspberry jam, earth andFrom vines situated next to those of Faiveley and Prieur near the bottom of the slope on the Vougeot side. An extremely ripe though not roasted nose reflects notes of black raspberry jam, earth and a variety of floral influences. The supple and delicious middleweight flavors are supported by firm tannins on the noticeably warm bitter cherry pit-suffused finish. Drinking range: 2034 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

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2022 MAZIS CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

2022 MAZIS CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot

From a tiny .08 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines located in Mazis-Haut that normally produce only one barrel. Moderate wood influence is present on the wild dark berry, sauvage and earthy nose. ThereFrom a tiny .08 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines located in Mazis-Haut that normally produce only one barrel. Moderate wood influence is present on the wild dark berry, sauvage and earthy nose. There is again good vibrancy to the detailed and subtly mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that deliver slightly better length on the firm, serious and better-balanced finale. Drinking range: 2034 - Rating: 89-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 3

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Domaine Christian Clerget

A domaine of 6 hectares, with 8 appellations, run by Christian, Isabelle and their daughter Justine Clerget from their house in the northern end of the little village of Vougeot, which is really in the commune of Chambolle. They have been organic (certified) since 2017, Justine having insisted on it when she joined them, but it sounds as though she was pushing at an open door, because Christian is entirely committed to this approach and clearly believes that good wine starts with the vines.

At harvest the grapes are picked into small cases for the short trip to the winery which really is right in the middle of their holdings. They adapt to the vintage conditions, so that they did 2 pigeages in total in 2019, whereas in 2017, they did one a day throughout the fermentation. In 2018 they did some whole bunch fermentation, but reverted to their normal complete destemming in 2019. At the end of the alcoholic fermentation Christian decants into tank, allows the wine to settle for ten days, then puts the wines into barrel where they stay without racking until bottling. They are using about 30% new wood on the villages and 40% on the Chambolle Charmes and the Échézeaux, and the wines stay in barrel for a long élevage of 18-20 months.

Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron

Domaine ‘JJ’ Confuron is named after the father of Sophie Meunier, who now runs the domaine with her husband Alain Meunier. Gradually they are handing it over to their son Louis.

The domaine goes back to the marriage in 1926 of Jean Confuron de Vosne and Anne-Marie Bouchard de Premeaux, starting with the vines that they both inherited. Together, they acquired more and started selling their own bottled wine in the early 1930s. Jean died in 1965. They had two sons, Christian and Jean-Jacques, who worked together until 1980. Jean-Jacques set up his own estate in 1981, but he died in January 1983. From then on it was his wife Andrée Noëllat and his daughter Sophie who took care of the estate. Sophie met Alain Meunier at the Lycée agricole in Beaune and from the 1985 harvest they worked together. In 1988, Andrée received one hectare of vines from her grandfather Charles Noëllat's domaine, which included the important parcels in Romanée St-Vivant, Nuits Boudots and Vosne Beaux Monts.

Since Louis has taken over the winemaking there have been some changes, but as they have no fixed 'recipe' it is hard to be precise - the levels of new wood seem to have dropped slightly, and like a lot of growers Louis has used some whole-bunch fermentation. On the whole they are relatively early pickers, and the wines have a generous depth of fruit. Although they have been organic since the 1990's Louis is concerned that the soils are still not in the best of health, so he is trying grassing over - but is concerned that this can mean competition for the vines and lower yields. In general he's trying to improve biodiversity in the vineyards, but says that they are going at it by feel, with small changes to see what works - a very practical hands-on approach. He spends 80% of his time tending the vines, and is working to make the plants more resistant to disease and rot.

Jasper Morris was impressed on his visit to taste the 2022s "This may be the best range of red wines I have seen from the domaine, where Louis’ fine-tuning over the last few years is paying dividends in terms of precision and purity."

Domaine Lignier-Michelot

A domaine of 11 hectares, 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.

In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis.

The wines have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.

Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs

The lack of the word 'domaine' in the name signals that this is a négociant wine from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault buys the grapes he picks having tended the vines with his own team, so that the wines are domaine wines in all but name.
Domaine-Thibault-Liger-Belair

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

The steady progression of this domaine has been fascinating to watch as Thibault gradually refines his approach to each parcel of vines. Viticulture is biodynamic (since 2005), yields low but not ludicrously low, everything is pragmatic, so that he should be doing just what is necessary and no more. He uses 40-50% new wood maximum, with wood chosen and aged by him, and barrels made with almost no toasting.

The wines are bright, pure, focused, aromatic and elegant without lacking anything in the way of stuffing. There is a range of wines produced from rented vines or from bought grapes, sold under the separate 'Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs' label. To each parcel the team brings great experience and there is a coherence across the range, so that the whole enterprise can be regarded as one.

Domaine Anne Gros

Anne Gros joined her father François at the family domaine in Vosne Romanée in 1988, having given up her arts studies in favour of viticulture and oenology at Beaune and Dijon, she took charge of the domaine in 1995 and has been joined now by 2 of her children Julie since 2015 and Paul since 2017. The Domaine now has 7 hectares of Pinot and Chardonnay. Anne describes herself as being 'wary of certainties and keen to preserve her freedom'.

In the vineyards Anne practises viticulture influenced by organic and biodynamic principles, and the vineyards are ploughed and fertilised with compost, but although she believes that the long-term health of the vineyards are best preserved by such methods, she likes to maintain the freedom to use conventional treatments when necessary.

In the cellar, the wines are classically made, in cement tanks for the reds, and stainless steel for the whites. They are then aged in barrel for up to fifteen months, with 80% new wood for the grand crus, 50% for the village wines and 30% for the regional wines. Anne is quietly meticulous and almost obsessive about cleanliness in her cellar, which perhaps is reflected in the delicacy and restrained tension in her wines, which have aromatic clarity, limpid precision, sheer joie de vivre, lively balance and persistence.

Domaine Henri Boillot

Henri Boillot was in reflective mood when we visited in November - clearly moved by the wonderful 2022s that we tasted together but also mindful of the cellar brim-full with 2023s. He was at ease, and despite his busy schedule - 'I will receive friends from every corner of the world this month' had time to talk about everything from his Syrah themed Birthday party - (a washout incidentally, and Pinot soon took over!) his views on the shortcomings of some Clos wines compared to some Monopole sites. As ever his approach, steeped in history yet with a very open mind to finessing his craft, has made some stellar wines in 2022. The whites are layered, textured juicy and characterful - and Guillaume’s reds continue to improve every time we visit, they are a real triumph this year, tasting better than ever.

A domaine which dates back to 1885, but which began properly in the early years of the 20th century under the current Henri's grandfather (also Henri). His son, Jean, was the one who really developed it. Henri arrived in 1975 and worked his way up, becoming the winemaker. In 2000 he began the building of the new winery at the bottom of Meursault, and he then bought out his brother and sister to keep the domaine as one, renaming it from 'Domaine Jean Boillot' to 'Domaine Henri Boillot' to avoid confusion with his brother Jean-Marc's domaine.

After six years working alongside his father, Guillaume is the 'chef de culture', i.e. heads up the vineyard team, and has been entirely responsible for the vinification of the reds since 2012. Henri continues to make the whites which he likes to be 'straight, taut, precise, pure and elegant'. Guillaume's input has resulted in red wines that have gained in definition and energy, without losing the luxurious velvety richness and fruit depth that they have always had. From 2018 he expanded his use of vinification intégrale in which the reds are vinified in the barrels they will be aged in - the cellar being equipped with 140 barrels with stainless steel doors in the ends, all made of wood they bought for the purpose, which has been dried for three years. Labour-intensive and time-consuming though it is, Guillaume clearly believes it is the way to more precision in the wines, and the difference is noticeable.

The Domaine has roughly equal surfaces of red and white, and of which just under 4ha is the Monopole vineyard of Clos de la Mouchère, a walled enclave within the premier Cru Puligny Perrières. After the 2018 acquisition of small parcels in Latricières and Échezeaux, the Boillots bought the vineyards of Domaine Henri Darnat early in 2019, bringing in a new monopole Clos in Meursault, the Clos Richemont, part of 1er Cru les Cras.

Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg

Sisters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée have been firmly in control of this exceptional domaine since their mother Jacqueline retired in 2009. With one a pharmacist and the other an oenologist, the domaine was always going to be in safe hands as far as the wine-making was concerned. In 2017 Marie-Christine 's daughter Lucie joined the domaine, and in 2019 the sisters celebrated their 30th vintage - and Marion and Fanny, daughters of Marie-Andrée also joined the team.

These are top-flight Burgundies with that elusive balance of enough concentration allied with delicacy of expression and the capability of ageing well.

Since 2016 they have put a small amount of whole bunches in some of the cuvées, more as a way to have sufficient volume in the vats than because they like the effect.