|Vineyard||Montée de Tonnerre|
Immediately sings out 'grand vin'. Power and richness allied to startling freshness. Green tropical fruit and citrus, finely oaked, dense and harmonious. Well done! L&S (Dec 2009)
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A completely different nose that is much more floral in character also evidences notes of oyster shell and algae, both of which can also be found on the rich, stony and almost painfully intense flavors that carry a gorgeous sense of underlying tension to the explosive, detailed and driving finish that is also extremely dry. 2015+ Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Oct 2010)
Fine nose, very nice ripe opulent apple and pear fruit quality, subtle oak, very good intensity with fine-textured fruit quality, and lovely richness through to a fine dry finish with a citrusy, mineral streak. Rating: 91-91 The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com(Feb 2010)
Great mineral intensity on the nose. Racy and sinewy with real purity and some openness. Very well managed – no astringency. Should develop into something pretty elegant. You could drink this already with pleasure but I’m suggesting holding off till it develops a little more. 2012-2019 Rating: 17.5 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2010)
We still miss the bright star that was Stéphane Moreau-Naudet, who died suddenly in September 2016, but there is no question that the domaine has proved to be in exceptionally capable hands under his widow Virginie, helped by Stéphane's team.
Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago) was a consummate vigneron, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence. He was also a master-craftsman in the cellar, using barrel-élevage, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus). Virginie is proving to have what it takes to build on Stéphane's legacy, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, are as fine as they have ever been.
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