CHABLIS
2008 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre Domaine Moreau-Naudet
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Chablis |
| Classification | 1er Cru |
| ABV | 12.5% |
| Vineyard | Montée de Tonnerre |
Immediately sings out 'grand vin'. Power and richness allied to startling freshness. Green tropical fruit and citrus, finely oaked, dense and harmonious. Well done! L&S (Dec 2009)
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A completely different nose that is much more floral in character also evidences notes of oyster shell and algae, both of which can also be found on the rich, stony and almost painfully intense flavors that carry a gorgeous sense of underlying tension to the explosive, detailed and driving finish that is also extremely dry. 2015+ Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2010)
Fine nose, very nice ripe opulent apple and pear fruit quality, subtle oak, very good intensity with fine-textured fruit quality, and lovely richness through to a fine dry finish with a citrusy, mineral streak. Rating: 91 The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com (Feb 2010)
Great mineral intensity on the nose. Racy and sinewy with real purity and some openness. Very well managed – no astringency. Should develop into something pretty elegant. You could drink this already with pleasure but I’m suggesting holding off till it develops a little more. 2012-2019 Rating: 17.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2010)
Domaine Moreau-Naudet
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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