MOREY SAINT DENIS
2008 Domaine des Lambrays
|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
Pale ruby – much paler than most. Sweet, appetising nose. Not heavy but already attractive and quite evolved. Sweet start. Is this his stems cuvée?? Round even! But forward. 2013-2018 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Feb 2011)
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles (or 9l equivalent) of wine or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified to get the 'case price' for each bottle.
Expressive aromas of wild, briary red berries, cola and spices, lifted by a peppery note. Not fleshy but not at all lacking in intensity. Mineral and fruity pepper components give energy to the wine. Not a particularly fruity style but finishes with good cut and lift and avoids the hardness and dryness shown by many 2008s. Rating: 87-88 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Mar 2010)
A light, very traditional, leafy nose with good definition: notes of redcurrant, orange rind and a touch of soy. The palate is elegant, refined, understated with soft tannins, well judged acidity and a very pure strawberry, meaty finish. 2010-2014. Rating: 86 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com(Jan 2010)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2018 marks the first year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after three.
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