Both fat and very mineral. Of the premiers crus this, perhaps, had the least in the way of distictive personality at our early tastings, but previous vintages have shown how well it can develop. L&S (Jan 2012)
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The fruit is rich and there is good depth of flavour on the palate. The depth fleshiness at the start and in the middle is underpinned by freshness apple and citrus with chalk and flint giving crispness on the finish. 2013-16 Rating: 90 Derek Smedley MW, www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk (Dec 2013)
There is enough reduction present that the nose is hard to read beyond the presence of discreet citrus nuances. There is good punch to the round, rich and utterly delicious flavors that display fine complexity and ample minerality on the balanced, long and agreeably dry finish. This is lovely and I like the persistence. 2016+ Rating: 89-92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2012)
The Forets has a pretty, ripe, bouquet of orange blossom and apricot: delicate but growing in intensity in the glass. The palate is fresh and lively on the entry. There is admirable weight in the mouth with a pleasant, earthy finish with hints of bruised apple coming through. Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jul 2012)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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