Smokey, complex, dusty and dense with flavour and minerals. A wine with a long way to go but all the elements are here. Ultimately fresh and pure, crystalline definition. L&S (Jan 2012)
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(from a .60 ha parcel planted in 1978 and aged in 30% wood). This is also completely classic with green fruit, oyster shell, iodine and citrus nuances leading to round, rich and quite generous flavors that brim with an abundance of dry extract. There is excellent complexity with good precision on the dry, delicious and well-balanced finish. If this can eventually match the length of the Montée de Tonnerre, it should merit the top of my predicted range. 2016+ Rating: 91-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2012)
The Valmur has a generous bouquet with fresh green apple and limestone on the nose that is well-defined but demands coaxing from the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with crisp green fruit, a keen thread of acidity and fine mineralité, although I would have liked to have seen more persistency on the finish. Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jul 2012)
This is a little more restrained than the Vaillons from the same producer, with an overlay of oak and oyster shell minerality. The wine should fatten out in bottle over the next year or two as the oak recedes. 2014-20 (93/100) Rating: 93 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Feb 2012)
A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).
Virginie (Mimi) Moreau is proving more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was a vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.
The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).
Virginie is now really totally confident in her role here, and the wines here, full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.
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