|Sub-district||Côte de Nuits|
|Village||Morey Saint Denis|
|Vineyard||Clos des Lambrays|
A similar lively style to the village Morey cuvée but, of course, with more minerals, more depth, more density. Equally hard to spit because it is just so easy, so croquant. Defined crunchy fruit, and complex spice notes. Big smiles. Thierry and I agree that 'un verre appelle un autre', you want another glass on finishing the first - a style of wine we both like. Spicy long finish. L&S (Nov 2011)
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Or, check the RELATED PRODUCTS below for different vintages or wines of a similar style.
Bright pale-medium red. Higher-pitched but more reticent on the nose than the 2012, showing a distinctly floral aspect as well as a redder fruit quality; more delicate and pristine. Wonderfully sexy and complex if somewhat youthfully tight in the mouth, conveying an ineffable silkiness of texture rather than the sheer plushness of the '12. Less dark in its fruit character as well, offering flavors of red raspberry, cherry, brown spices and underbrush. Wonderfully tactile and delineated; this really glistens on the palate and on the very long, refined aftertaste. Here the tannins are suaver than those of the 2012. More about finesse than power, but this wine will nonetheless need time to express itself more fully. An essence of terroir and a wine of great verve. Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 94 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Apr 2019)
The influence of whole bunch fermentation may be too much for some, but if you like the style, this is a very polished expression of it. Sappy and slightly stemmy, with good structure and notes of forest floor and fresh earth. 2014-25 (94/100) Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Feb 2012)
Good full red. Knockout nose combines raspberry liqueur, cherry, brown spices and pepper. Utterly suave and fine-grained but much less open to inspection than the premier cru. The fruit is less explosive today and distinctly darker than that of the Loups. Best today on the suave, slowly building, horizontal finish, which features substantial noble tannins, firm structure and lovely lingering perfume. Rating: 92 - 95 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2012)
Domaine des Lambrays
The 'Clos' consists of 8.66 hectares of land enclosed by a wall in which there is the original milestone marking its founding in 1365, confirmed in the records of the Abbaye de Citeaux (those monks knew where to place a vineyard). The Clos owes much of its current fame to the nineteenth and twentieth century proprietors who reconstituted it after the fragmentation of ownership which followed the French revolution. Despite always having been considered a Grand Cru site, the Clos was in fact classified Premier Cru in the original 1936 appellations contrôlées.
The Rodier family which owned it from the 1930s fought to regain its Grand cru status, with eventual success only in 1981, when it became the last of the thirty-three Grands Crus of Burgundy, although by then it had passed to the Saier family. Recently under the benign ownership of the Günther Freund and his family, who gave a very free hand to régisseur Thierry Brouin, who had been employed by their predecessor Rolland Pelletier de Chambure, the quality of the wines here has pushed up again. In 2014 it was bought by the LVMH group.
It has been all rather quick change here as Jacques Devauge has taken over here after a short interregnum under Boris Champy. The legacy of Thierry Brouin can still be felt, Jacques decribing him as having been 'clairvoyant' in his approach to the domaine, which has set it up well to deal with challenges of warmer vintages. Jacques seems set to take this estate onward - 'every domaine has to challenge itself to do better', he says. 2019 marks the second year being fully organic - if all goes well they will be certified after another two.
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