|Côte de Beaune
Citrus, peach and a really intriguing menthol/fennel thing going on. Vibrant, rich but poised. Concentrated, complex and long. Bien fait! L&S (Jan 2012)
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Bright, pale straw-yellow. Subdued but pure aromas of orange dusty and powdered stone. Shows sweet citrus and floral notes in the middle, and comes across as slightly warm after the Narvaux. Tightens up considerably on the stony finish, which displays a metallic edge and strong calcaire qualities. Rating: 90(+?) Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sep 2012)
One of the most complete, beautiful wines in this lineup, the 2010 Meursault Les Chevalieres possesses the rich fruit that is typical of the Jobard whites in 2010, yet is also has considerable minerality. There is a level of nuance and sheer delineation in the Chevalieres that is simply striking. Bright floral notes leave a lasting impression on the impeccably balanced, long finish. This is Jobard’s oldest parcel. The vines were planted in 1940. Anticipated maturity: 2014+ Rating: 92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Sep 2012)
Even more minerally than the Narvaux from the same producer, again showing notes of citrus rind and cashew nut. The concentration is understated, but it’s there all right, supported by the stony finish. 2016-22 (94/100) Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Feb 2012)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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