2010 1er Cru Croix Noires Domaine de Courcel
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
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Very deep crimson for a 2010. Heady, flashy nose. Very dry oak tannins. Very much made for the long term. But it all seems to fade on the finish. 2016-2023 Rating: 15.5 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2012)
This is a premier cru. Courcel have 0.6 of the 1.2 hectares. No MLF now. The malic acidity highlights the tannins. It has vibrant and ripe fruit. It has good energy and sweetness and depth of dark fruit in the middle. Plenty of thick tannins, made more aggressive by the malic acidity, but this is smooth out. Lots of substance. Finishes very well. Potentially Fine. Score 18 Rating: 18 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Jan 2012)
Domaine de Courcel
One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.
The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.
The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.
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