PULIGNY MONTRACHET

2010 1er Cru Champ Canet Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Grapes Chardonnay
Colour White
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Beaune
Village Puligny Montrachet
Classification 1er Cru
ABV 13%
Vineyard Champ Canet

Higher up the slope again, above Combettes, and next to Meursault Perrières. Fine and fresh, a fruit that recalls juicy ripe pears but so much more, wonderfully translucent and fresh. Salty mineral in the background, glassy purity, hard not to swallow. 'A dangerous wine' says Jean-Marc, 'because you want to drink a lot of it.' Fabulous. L&S (Dec 2011)


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The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet has a linear, direct, quite intense bouquet with just a slight reduction, opening up all the time with fresh pear, dewy green apple and subtle waxy notes in the background. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, fine tension, rather Meursault-like in style with orange zest and freshly sliced pear towards the tense finish. This is an accomplished wine from Boillot and should drink well for a number of years. Drinking range: 2014 - 2022 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2014)

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Champs Canet is one of the more overt 2010s in this lineup. Floral, honeyed tones give the Champs Canet an element of voluptuousness and sheer viscosity. Although there was no botrytis in the fruit, there is an element of sweetness that gives the Champs Canet an exotic, at times, tropical air. I find considerable beauty in the glass, but I imagine the wine's extroverted personality won't appeal to everyone. According to Boillot yields in Champs Canet were down more than 50% in 2010. Rating: 93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Nov 2013)

Bright yellow. More obviously ripe on the nose than the Referts: mirabelle, peach, orange blossom and marzipan. A primary peach-and-orange fruit bomb in the mouth, but with enough bright acidity to leaven the impression of sweetness. Tactile, chewy white Burgundy with excellent cut and length. Rating: 92(+?) Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sept 2012)

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Jean-Marc Boillot left the family domaine to be winemaker to Olivier Leflaive for five years. Then from his maternal grandfather Étienne Sauzet he inherited much of the vineyard of the old Domaine Sauzet, in some of the best vineyards of Puligny. With this holding and others from his paternal side, he set up his own business, and he has been responsible for over 50 vintages. His daughter Lydie and son-in-law François Alzingre have worked alongside him and effectively run the domaine, and are now being joined by their children.

With the belief that a vine reaches its full potential when 40 years old, the team look after their old vines carefully, and those in La Garenne and Combettes are still those planted by J-M's grandfather Étienne Sauzet. Vines are planted to a minimum of 12000 vines per hectare, and the vineyard worked by ploughing to encourage the plants to have deep roots. They are trimmed quite high at 1.2m to leave lots of leaves for photosynthesis, and also to shade the bunches from direct sun exposure which might burn them.

Great care is taken over the date of harvest, with careful controls of ripeness made over a period of three weeks prior to starting. The grapes are harvested manually, and placed in small cases for transport to the winery, where they are pressed as whole bunches. The juice is allowed to settle out in tank and then transferred to barrel for fermentation with the fine lees. Batonnage once a week during the 11 months of barrel-aging helps the wines to feed and fatten on the lees. They normally use between 25 and 30% new wood. The domaine makes wines that show well young, with sometimes citrussy, sometimes with complex exotic fruit aromas, always with the core of minerality, and they age well too.

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