2011 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Like the others, this is tight and sappy. Even Rémi says it is not supple like the others. 'When they are ten years old the Poruzot gets the elegance on the finish that the Genevrières has from the start', he remarks. At our London tasting this was remarkable for being more open than the Genevrières, with astonishing density of flavour. Lovely tautness and length. L&S (Jan 2013)
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A deep, earthy wine, the 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots-Dessus hits the palate with tons of muscle and power. The style is bold and direct. There isn't a whole lot of complexity here, but there is plenty of pure stuffing. It will be interesting to see where the 2011 goes over the coming year. Today structural elements dominate over fruit. Rating: 92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com(Nov 2013)
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Very ripe aromas of apricot, grapefruit and honey. Fat, lush and harmonious, with just enough acidity to maintain its shape. Finishes dusty and tactile, with subtle, building length. As with the 2012 version, a note of underripe grapefruit gives grip and bite to the finish. Rating: 92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Sep 2013)
Rating: 17.5+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com(Jan 2013)
Every bit as good as the Genevrières, but in a different style. This is still quite “worked” and leesy, with waxy, lanolin notes underpinned by freshness and citrus peel acidity. Very long indeed. 2014-20 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2013)
Very savoury nose. Transparent and quite delicate. Green notes on the finish. Very clean but not skinny. 2016-2023 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson MW OBE - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2013)
A little reserved. Vigorous, but savoury on the attack. Good tension; rather compact. Fresh, but not austere. There is just a light richness on the font, with a compact quality in the core; but this releases on the finish, where it is more open and has softer, smoother mineral – still savoury though. A more savoury, ‘robust’ wine, but with an edge of charm…umm. Fine. From 2016.Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Nov 2012)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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