2012 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
As so often, the Poruzots is understated at this stage, and its ripeness, tasted after the Chevalières, makes it seem almost too easy, supple, ripe and round. But there is real richness and density here. Tasted from the new barrel the oak is evident, but the fruit shrugs it off effortlessly. Pure and long and so seamless. L&S (Dec 2013)
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Pale, bright yellow. High-pitched aromas of crystallized citrus peel and powdered stone. Quite tight and lean today, with penetrating acidity keeping the firm citrus and talc flavors in the deep background today. This rather saline Meursault will need bottle aging to develop more personality and length. Rating: 89(+?) Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Sep 2014)
Airy and ripe aromas of both white and yellow orchard fruit, roasted hazelnut and citrus hints are framed by the discreet but not invisible oak treatment. There is excellent volume and concentration to the muscular and solidly powerful medium weight plus flavors where a citrus-inflected finish helps to add vibrancy. Note that this youthfully austere effort is not particularly complex at present though my score envisions the development of additional depth with time in bottle. 2018+ Rating: 91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2014)
Complex aromas of citrus fruits and musky stone, with hints of honey and hazelnut. Rich, sweet and almost exotic, but with surprising acidity framing the mango and hazelnut flavors. Piquant notes of grapefruit and underripe pineapple give cut to the persistent finish. This should offer relatively early pleasure. Rating: 89-91 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar(Mar 2014)
The richness of the oak apparent, but this is a level up in intensity. Tight, good focused core. Compact in the middle palate. It is not at all burly and soaks up the new wood on the palate. I like the definition at the edges of the palate. A well structured wine. Contained and well edged. Towards fine. From 2016/7 Rating: 17.75 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing(Feb 2014)
Rating: 93 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com(Jan 2014)
Apple, blossom, no oak to speak of (or smell of), quite tight structure – not the cliché of fatness for this Meursault. Zippy. 2014-2020 Rating: 17 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com(Jan 2014)
The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Le Poruzot-Dessus comes from a 0.57-hectare parcel of vines planted in 1944 and 1985. It has a lovely bouquet bursting with mineralite and tension. It actually reminds me of one of Jean-Marc Roulot’s gems. The palate is very well balanced with a crisp, very focused, citric entry. There is lovely poise and freshness here – a wine leaves you craving to taste it out of bottle tout de suite. Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.robertparker.com(Jan 2014)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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