|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Finer and more delicate than the Vaumuriens, the Croix Noires is still a typically structured Pommard - from a great domaine in a top vintage. L&S (Dec 2013)
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This is quite ripe though it stops short of being surmature with its nose of plum liqueur, mocha, black cherry and earth aromas. There is exceptionally good richness to the very suave and succulent medium weight flavors that are supported by phenolically mature tannins on the mouth coating finish. This is a big and overtly powerful wine yet it’s not especially rustic or austere. 2024+ Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2015)
Good dark red. Wild, very ripe aromas of raspberry, dried flowers and wild herbs. Dark berry flavors display a juicy character along with a note of chocolatey ripeness. An outperformer for this cru, finishing with substantial but tasty tannins and lovely persistence. I underestimated this wine last year. Drinking range: 2020 - 2027 Rating: 90 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Mar 2015)
This is quite ripe though it stops short of being surmature with its nose of plum liqueur, mocha, black cherry and earth aromas. There is exceptionally good richness to the very suave and succulent medium weight flavors that are supported by phenolically mature tannins on the mouth coating finish that presently exhibits just a touch of bitterness. Given how ripe this appears to be my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt. 2020+ Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2014)
Domaine de Courcel
One of the great domaines of Pommard, with a 400 year history in the same family. The domaine produces a small amount of Bourgogne Chardonnay, a completely over-performing Bourgogne Rouge, a village Pommard (Vaumuriens, 1.44 ha), but the biggest part of the domaine consists of four great Premier Cru expressions of the terroir of Pommard, Fremiers (0.79 ha), Croix Noires (0.58 ha), Grand Clos des Epenots (4.89 ha) and Rugiens (1.07 ha). These represent a very different style to the Clos des Épeneaux of Comte Armand, for example. Yves Confuron, the régisseur, describes the difference between the two top wines by saying that the Grand Clos is 'terreux' while the Rugiens is 'aérien'.
The aim is to limit yields to around 25hl/ha, to attain optimum ripeness. The vines are ploughed, and pruned carefully to suit each one, then de-budded in spring and green-harvested in August to keep the fruit load balanced. Following Yves' usual practice the harvest is late and the vatting is long - usually around a month, with a cold maceration leading into a cool fermentation, and a long post-fermentation soak under the protection of the carbon dioxide given off by the fermentation. The wines are developed in barrel over 21 to 23 months, with a third of the barrels being replaced each year. After racking they are bottled without fining or filtration.
The domaine produces wines with astonishing depth and density that still retain the freshness, just like Yves' own wines at Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. They are classic vins de garde and patience is advised - and will be amply rewarded.
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