2013 1er Cru Poruzot Dessus Domaine Rémi Jobard
|Sub-district||Côte de Beaune|
Absolutely classic Meursault, with all the opulence one would expect from the appellation. Complex and elegant, with some nutty, honeyed notes indicative of some bottle age and creamy mid-palate texture. (Natasha Hughes MW) Drinking range: 2020 - 2025 Rating: 95 Decanter Magazine (Apr 2020)
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Only a tiny bit more colour than the Chevalières, but significantly more volume. The nose may be delicate with citrus purity, but the palate surprises with its weight. Shot through with lemony freshness, there's also a depth of spicy flavour and it is very long. Rémi confirms that for him it is very concentrated - only half a normal crop. Drinking range: 2018 - 2023L&S(Nov 2014)
Very pale yellow color. Ripe, very fresh aroma of crystallized apricot. Tactile, saline and intense, showing considerable power to its silky, concentrated peach and mineral flavors. This very well-balanced wine finishes chewy and long. Drinking range: 2020 - 2029 Rating: 92 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com(Sep 2015)
(from .50 ha parcel). Once again there is plenty of citrus character present on the green fruit, floral and exotic tea aromas. There is a sleek muscularity to the vibrant and concentrated flavors that possess a slightly finer mouth feel than I typically see with this wine, all wrapped in balanced finish that delivers beautiful depth and persistence. 2020+ Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com(Jun 2015)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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